Vakona Forest Lodge

The reception area, bar and large dining room are octagonal, with balconies on two sides and large windows overlooking the lake. Here, fires are lit at night and first thing in the morning to warm you against the damp. The food is fresh and well prepared, with both Malagasy and Western dishes. Upstairs is a gift shop and, for down times, there's a pool table, table tennis and a good lounge with TV. Wi-Fi is available, as is a pool.

Of the 28 pretty bungalows spread around the main complex, eight are doubles, seven sleep three, three have twin-bed accommodation and 10 can sleep families of four. All are clean and comfortable, with humidifiers (usually on when you arrive) to clear the rainforest damp. The beds are large, the mosquito nets are ample, the en-suite bathroom has a heater for drying towels and the small veranda outside is great for early-morning coffee. The decor is slightly dated, but perfectly adequate.

Hike the trails uphill or down to lemur-filled Indri island. Venture into the rainforest with a guide to see mammals and birds you'll encounter nowhere else. Feeling brave? Take a guided night walk in Analamzotra – you may catch sight of the web-throwing spider and roosting ground roller. (Book at reception.) The animals are the main attraction, but you can also explore on mountain bike or horseback, paddle around the lake and its islands in a canoe or relax poolside.