Walled hilltop towns, medieval watchtowers and bucolic vine rows, Chianti & its surrounds is Tuscany's beating heart.
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Few Italian wines are as instantly recognisable as Chianti, a bottle generously poured at trattoria tables around the world. And here, between Florence and Siena, is where the story begins. This is the heartland of Chianti Classico, the original zone established in 1716 and still identified by the black rooster seal on every bottle. Sangiovese grapes reign and the vineyards are all about livelihood and legacy, often attached to family-run estates that have been bottling since the 1700s, their cellars cool and barrel-lined beneath stone farmhouses. Villages like Greve, Radda and Castellina offer fabulous tastings in tiny enotecas and in between, you’ll find serious olive oil producers and butcheries specialising in cinta senese pork. The scenery is beautiful (this is Tuscany, after all), but a visit to Chianti is less about view-gazing and more about tasting iconic vintages and understanding this incredible craft.
The food and wine alone could fill a fortnight, but somehow the scenery still manages to steal the show.
Seek out the forested hills around Gaiole, wilder and less manicured than the postcard-perfect west.
A car is essential here. Public transport is scarce and the best discoveries are down unmarked lanes.
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