What to do in Daisetsuzan

Adventure lurks behind every volcanic ridge in this untamed wilderness, aptly nicknamed "the playground of the gods" by the indigenous Ainu people. Hikers of moderate fitness can tackle the mighty Mount Asahi, where scrambling over lunar-like landscapes eventually rewards with views stretching clear to the Sea of Japan on cloudless days. The real magic, however, lies in discovering perfectly positioned onsen—natural hot springs—where one can soak aching muscles while watching snowy peaks turn pink in the fading light. Autumn brings Japan's first koyo (autumn colours), transforming alpine meadows into a riot of crimson and gold nearly a month before the rest of the country. Wildlife enthusiasts should pack binoculars for spotting the elusive Ezo brown bear—rather larger than one might prefer when encountered on foot—and the Hokkaido fox, with its improbably fluffy tail and inquisitive manner.