Where to go in Galapagos

The easternmost island in the archipelago, San Cristobal is a melee of volcanic peaks, juicy vegetation and idyllic Pacific beaches. The exotically-named Baquerizo Moreno is the capital of the entire archipelago, but the seaside promenade, and chilled-out surfers and snorkelers lend it a laidback, tropical vibe. And the wildlife highlights? Isla Lobos and Kicker Rock offer incredible underwater explorations with sea lions pirouetting in the water at both, and, if you’re lucky, hammerhead sharks at Kicker. Beach-wise, Cerro Brujo takes the crown for the most heavenly in Galapagos, its powder-soft sands dotted with great egrets and blue herons. At La Loberia, first prize goes to the marine iguanas. In the interior, check out the tortoises at La Galapaguera, a fascinating man-made breeding program, and watch the frigatebirds showering the salt from their feathers at El Junco lagoon. Oh, and keep your camera primed for the Chatham mockingbird, a Cristobal special that isn’t found anywhere else in the world.

If ever there was a ‘hub’ of the Galapagos, Isla Santa Cruz would be it. The second-largest of all the islands – and the one that completely disproves the myth that the Galapagos is uninhabited by humans – the main port, Puerto Ayora, is the start and end point for most boat and yacht trips, day excursions or longer. The Charles Darwin Research Station and the Information Centre are also here, and there’s an airport (on nearby Baltra) that supports inter-island flights, as well as back to mainland Ecuador. But, back to the fun stuff, which, on Santa Cruz, are the giant tortoises that roam wild in the forested highlands next to coffee farms and tiny villages. There is also an incredible network of lava tunnels to explore, the glorious, white-sand Tortuga Bay where marine iguanas float in the water and your neighbouring sunbathers might include pelicans and flamingo, and picturesque lagoons to kayak alongside blue herons and sea turtles. Some may tell you to give Santa Cruz a miss, but for those who stay longer, there’s a whole world to discover.

The youngest and largest of the Galapagos, Isabela was formed by the collision of six volcanoes. The crumbling line of rocks is rugged, striking and incredibly dramatic, and, to add a bit more excitement, five of the fiery craters are still active today. Resultantly, the scenery is a mass of twisty-turny lava flows almost entirely devoid of soil or vegetation, and, if you didn’t know better, you might wonder what all the fuss is about… And then, her secrets are revealed. Take a boat up to Tagus Cove, a natural harbour frequented by swash-buckling pirates and buccaneers, and watch the warblers, flycatchers and finches as they parade on by. Then there’s Elizabeth Lagoon and the Marielas Islets, a magnet for sea turtles, rays, pelicans and herons, the magnificent coral reef at Urbina Bay, a snorkeler’s paradise, and the enormous Sierra Negra volcano where hiking trails will lead you past spectacular views and short-eared owls. Last but not least are the Galapagos penguins, the only penguins found north of the equator and Isabela’s highlight. Take a dinghy along the cliffs, moor up in a sandy bay and watch as they tumble into the water and whizz through the waves.