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Destinations

Where to go in Cambodia

A pint-sized yet wonderfully diverse country, split your time between sun-soaked beaches, the luscious Cardamom Mountains and Siem Reap, the gateway to iconic Angkor Wat.

Siem Reap

Creative ambition & spiritual devotion in Cambodia’s heart and soul.

If Cambodia glows with ancient wonder, then Angkor and its temples must be positively fluorescent. In practical terms, ‘Angkor’ refers to the almost 400-square kilometres of tangled jungle littered with temples, each one bigger and more beautiful than the last, and all built over a period of 600 years. It’s the largest religious complex in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Within Angkor itself are the three big hitters to add to your sightseeing: the A-lister itself, Angkor Wat, one of the most recognisable religious sites on the planet and an inspired symbol of the Khmer devotion to religion; Angkor Thom, the Royal city and former capital of the Khmer Empire; and Ta Phrom, a tussle of moss-covered peaks propped up by giant fig trees. Whichever you choose, rest-assured that you’ll be leaving in a state of wonderment and with a memory card full of snaps. Then, of course, there’s Siem Reap. The epicentre of tourist activity (in a good way), the modern city is the gateway to the temples beyond. The hotels are chic, the food is fabulous and the markets are buzzing – Cambodian life in a nutshell.

Phnom Penh

A reinvented capital city inspired by infectious optimism and a true zest for life.

You don’t have to look hard for a contrast in Cambodia’s capital city: from the surrounding rice fields, dotted with pottery kilns and ambling cattle, to the glittering rooftop bars and thriving social start-ups in the centre; from humming Russian baazars and haphazard markets, to the spectacular City Palace and diamond-encrusted Silver Pagoda; from a city famed for its dark and turbulent past at the hands of the Khmer Rouge, to the burgeoning, vibrant population that exists today. But the beauty of Phnom Penh is never quite knowing what to expect, and a day could take you from the sobering Killing Fields and S21 prison in the morning, to an afternoon of devouring gastronomic delicacies conjured up by young chefs in the afternoon. Then, there’s the museums dedicated to Khmer history, the emerging microbreweries and uber-cool eateries, the elegant hotels, the glamorous French architecture, and the glimmering rivers. It might not be the ‘Pearl of Asia’ anymore, but Phnom Penh certainly deserves its place amongst the gems of the southeast.

Cardamom Mountains

A treasure-trove of biodiversity fused with conservation and extraordinary hospitality.
High up in the clouds, surrounded by virgin rainforest and little else bar a dollop of tiny villages and the fragrant spice trees of the same name, are the spectacular Cardamom Mountains. Remote and seriously out-of-the-way, their seclusion is all part of the appeal, both for travellers looking to head off-grid, but also for allowing the area to remain a refuge for 55 incredibly rare wildlife species including the Malayan sun bear, clouded leopards, Siamese crocodiles, and gibbons. Famously, it’s also one of only two places in Cambodia to spot Asian elephants. Sadly, the area has suffered more than its fair share of illegal logging and poaching, but in recent years, the opening of several (very lovely) eco-lodges has propelled sustainable development, and the future is bright. If you venture this far, your visit will undoubtedly include a deep dive into the many conservation projects (patrols and wild camping with the Wildlife Alliance rangers if you’re keen…), as well as explorations of hidden caves and wacky waterfalls, and cycling and walking escapades on far-flung trails.

Cambodia's beaches

Knockout sunsets, idyllic island retreats and bags of adventure on the little-visited southern coast.
Did you know that Cambodia has over 400 kilometres of brilliant white, sandy coastline and a picture-perfect gathering of blissfully-beachy islands? Nope, neither did we until our first visit – and we can assure you that it’s 400 kilometres of utter magic that is barely on the world’s radar (yet). Lapped by the bathtub-warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand, the bays and coves are ideal for swimming, snorkelling and pretty much any other water-based activity you desire, and the wild, tangled interiors offer everything from wildlife spotting to waterfall chasing, hiking, cycling and exploring. Accommodation has come on leaps and bounds since the days of sandy-floored huts and you’ll find an array of laidback boutique hotels and tranquil villas to suit all tastes and budgets. In fact, the southern islands are now home to la crème de la crème of glamorous resorts, which we’re going to find very hard to keep a secret for much longer…

Koh Rong

A drop-dead gorgeous archipelago, home to secluded retreats to get away from it all.
If ‘tropical paradise’ had a picture, we’re pretty sure it would look something like the Koh Rong archipelago. Koh Rong itself is the second largest of Cambodia’s islands, 45-minutes by speedboat from Sihanoukville, and was, until relatively recently, a forgotten wilderness of jungle-trimmed sand. Fast-forward a few years and the island became something of a name on the backpacker circuit; but fast-forward a few more to the establishment of some of Cambodia’s finest resorts, and Koh Rong is the ultimate beach-holiday nirvana. Palm-fringed beaches and luminous waters conjure just about every superlative in the dictionary – and then some – and those aforementioned resorts are idyllic, secluded, and shrines to undisturbed R&R. Then, 4 kilometres across the waves is Koh Rong Samloem, Koh Rong’s lesser-visited little sister. A haze of aquamarine waters and yawning crescents of sand, the accommodation options are laidback with a serious helping of barefoot relaxation, and although a few restaurants and beach bars provide entertainment if required, Samloem is really about getting away from it all – properly.

Krabey Island

Pure, unadulterated escapism in a dreamier-than-dreamy, private island resort.
Part of the delectable Koh Rong Archipelago, Koh Krabey is one of those places that you’ll never want to leave let alone tell anyone else about, heaven forbid its charms be known to the world… The island is tiny (30 kilometres wide to be exact) and completely, utterly, wonderfully private, with only a smattering of villas strung across the jungle, all belonging to the same resort. All the elements of an indulgent escape are present and correct, from untrodden beaches to waters bursting with neon-bright fish, and a melee of pools and Jacuzzis, yoga decks, massage pavilions, and secret sunbathing spots to aid maximum relaxation. But actually, it’s the things you might not expect that make this an unforgettable destination. Take, for example, the forested interior that virtually buzzes with birds and animals, and the Earth Lab organic farm that supplies the hotel with a bouquet of organic fruit and vegetables. Perhaps you fancy mixing your own blend of herbs at the Alchemy Bar for a truly unique massage, gliding through the mangroves on the lookout for wildlife, or a watching the stars from a private observatory? Sounds terrible, doesn’t it…

Kep

Witness the comeback of one of Cambodia’s most-loved beach escapes and live like a local on the coast.
From wealthy urbanites to playboy princes, the palm-fringed headland of Kep on Cambodia’s southern coastline was the place to be seen in the first half of the 20thcentury. Then, in the 1970s, the area became the centre of ferocious fighting between the Khmer Rouge and government forces, and the town lay all but deserted until really quite recently. The result is a deliciously quiet seaside escape, where development is careful and planned and the main activity is taking it easy. In the centre, crumbling, grandiose villas from bygone times sit alongside trendy, boutique hotels, locals from near and far chatter happily in the streets, and the seafood is unbeatable – try the famous Crab Market at sunset for Kep’s signature dish of fried crab and Kampot pepper. Catamarans, kayaks and snorkelling equipment can all be rented from the Sailing Club, day trips to tiny, sand-ringed islands will satisfy sun-worshippers (Kep’s beach isn’t the best we’ve come across). There are also plenty of opportunities to cycle in the countryside, hike in Bokor National Park, and visit the local pepper plantations of Kampot.

Mekong River

Cruise the mighty Mekong and see the country’s highlights from a different perspective.
One of the world’s greatest rivers, the Mekong flows for 4,350 kilometres from its source in the Tibetan Plateau to the Mekong Delta through no less than 6 countries: China, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. Traditional life sprawls out from the water and, for the majority of the communities that live alongside it, the river is a lifeline. The lower Mekong Basin (in Cambodia and Vietnam) is by far the most commonly navigated section, and down here you’ll spot traditional sampans floating alongside luxury ships and river boats of visitors. Spending a few nights on such a boat and journeying the twists and turns of the Mekong is a wonderful way to see the treasures of the region, from the verdant scenery and enchanting local life, to bucket list world heritage sites, larger-than-life temples and intriguingly modern cities. Many cruises start (or end) in Vietnam, making an exploration of the two easy and stress-free. Length-wise, slow the pace down and spend a week on board your vessel, or choose a shorter, 3-day cruise for just the highlights. The choice is yours…

Battambang

Rural and lovely, let Battambang tempt with its pretty buildings and laidback scenes.
Strip away the crowds of Siem Reap, and the beeping and buzzing of Phnom Penh, and you’ve got yourself Battambang. An elegant, riverside town (Cambodians call it a city and still argue over whether it’s the second or third largest in the country– it’s all relative!), the pace of life is permanently set to laidback, there’s absolutely no hurry to enter the 21stcentury, and exploration is a real delight. A wander in the centre will reveal pretty French buildings, shutters flapping in the breeze and shining mustard walls, a handful of Angkor-era temples and wats, and a burgeoning arts and culture scene that, some say, is leading the post-genocide cultural renaissance across the country. Away from the town and the countryside is a bucolic mix of villages and hilltop temples, ripe for exploration on two wheels (or two feet). Then, on one of the last hills, you’ll find the notorious Ghost Caves, a stark reminder of the troubled days of the Khmer Rouge but worth a visit to confront the history of the country head-on.
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