Where to go in India

Regal Rajasthan is the India of storybooks. A land of palaces and powerful forts, chivalrous Kings and battle-scarred heritage, maharajas and tiger-filled parks, it’s vivid, magical and everything you ever imagined India to be. On the practical side of things, it's the country’s second largest state and one of the most well-developed. For most visitors the first stop is hustling, bustling Delhi, usually followed by a variation of the famous Golden Triangle route (with or without Agra) that will swoop you from fairy-tale deserts to jungles and exquisite cities. And that brings us nicely to our next point: wherever you wander in Rajasthan, you’ll find a history that’s very much alive, permeating the state with pride and charisma, and glimpses of the dazzling culture. It might have a reputation as beginner’s India but once you scratch the surface, you could stay here forever…

Smack bang in the centre of India, Madhya Pradesh is often lost in the shadow of its colourful northern neighbour, Rajasthan. In fact, we would guess that you’ve probably never heard of it – and now we’d like to change that. The region is rich in architectural wonders and dripping with temples, hilltop palaces, forts and mosques that house some of the finest carvings in the country: the erotic sculptures of the Khajuaraho and the intricate architecture of Maheshwar to name a few. But, if there’s one image that sums up the state, it’s the tiger. This is national park land and with six protected tiger reserves, more than in any other state, the chance to spot a wild Royal Bengal in the mottled shadows of the jungle is high. And the best bit is that in these remote parts, you’ll probably be the only one with a pair of binos…

From a plane window, you’ll spot almost every landscape imaginable as you swish over the Western Himalayas. Extending from Afghanistan and all across northern India (above Delhi and to the west of Nepal), stark desert-scapes gives way to grassy valleys, lofty peaks emerge from grassy foothills and of course, there’s a good smattering of snow-clad mountains too. But the scenery isn’t the only reason you venture north. These lands have long been a focus of worship and religious ritual, and the spiritual magnitude in the Buddhist enclave of Ladakh is enthralling, as are the temples, festivals and ashrams of the holy cities. Tea plantations, hill stations and quaint villages are poignant remnants of a bygone era and the foothills, aside from offering some of the best trekking in the world, reveal a serene, rural way of life, unchanged for centuries.

If India summons images of cow-studded fields, dusty streets and crumbling buildings then Kerala is here to prove you wrong. A lazy haze of tropical palms, undulating swathes of green and the famous, winding backwater canals, this south-western state is heavenly – so much so that locals even refer to it as ‘God’s Own Country’. It’s also noticeably more relaxed and multi-cultural than other parts of the country, perhaps thanks to its high levels of education or indeed long history of trade with merchants from all over the world. Either way, Kerala is all about the chill and whether you’re strolling the streets of multi-coloured Cochin, floating leisurely along the backwaters, or soaking up the cool of the central tea plantations, we challenge you not to fall in love with India all over again.

If you ever hear a local referring to the “south”, it’s probably Tamil Nadu they’re talking about. Ask a Brit? They almost certainly won’t have heard of it. For centuries, the south-eastern state was protected by the might of India’s formidable dynasties, largely escaping the influences of the north. The result is one of the world’s last surviving classical civilisations (a fact that the Tamils are undeniably proud of), a distinct culture, and some of the most exquisite temples in Asia. 8 out of the 10 largest Hindu temples in the world are found here and the sculpted stonework and dancing gods are stupendous. Leave the temples behind for a meander down the eastern coastline with its golden beaches and sweeping views of the Bay of Bengal, or head west to the verdant hills of tea and coffee plantations, where cycling, trekking and deep, soulful breaths are the name of the game.

Part of the famous Golden Triangle that links Delhi and Jaipur, Agra is officially in the quintessentially Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. It’s a small town, straddling a languid bend of the holy Yamuna River, and, of course, home to the Taj Mahal. Built by emperor Shah Jahan in the early 1600s as a tribute to his favourite wife, there’s no greater ode to love in the world and the gleaming white marble minarets and delicate florals are spellbinding. Despite the hype, it’s every bit as good as you would hope and laying your eyes on it for the first time is worthy of every single cliché – it really is that spectacular, humbling, and jaw-droppingly beautiful. Spend as much time as you like here, morning, noon and evening, and then dip a toe into Agra’s other sights, including the Agra Fort and the smiling villages on the far side of the river.

A treasure-trove of magnificent experiences, Jaipur is India’s modern, glitzy, vibrant and utterly romantic Pink City. Recently designated a UNESCO world heritage site, the ancient city walls contain a melee of salmon-coloured buildings, elaborate architecture and grand fortresses, the glorious City Palace taking pride of place. Visit Huwa Mahal, the Palace of the Winds, and marvel at the honeycomb exterior of stained glass and stone, then venture to the Amber Fort for a wander through the pavilions and dainty courtyards of Jaipur’s star attraction. But don’t miss the other side of this enthralling city either: glamorous polo matches atop painted elephants; cool-as-a-cucumber bars and restaurants hidden in the back streets; and a shopping scene to rival New York, where everything from block-print fabrics to Rajput jewels await a precious space in your suitcase.

Old Delhi and New Delhi. When you hear talk of the two, it’s easy to imagine neat halves, perfectly separated by a row of fluttering flags or maybe a rickshaw-laden highway. Well, no, not exactly. There are, of course, distinct differences – visit Old for the Red Fort, piping street food, cows, and frenetic bazaars; New for the iconic India Gate, colonial boulevards, greenery and glitzy hotels – but the whole shebang is actually a blend of eight ancient cities. Each new one was built on the dust of its predecessor, leaving behind a hodgepodge of shiny edifices and photogenic monuments tucked into every corner. So, take a deep breath and dive into Mughal history, haggle, shake your camera at mosques, temples and fortresses, hail a tuk-tuk, fill all your suitcases with shawls, slippers and handicrafts, and indulge your tastebuds with a fusion of cuisine from all over the country – because that’s how you do Delhi.

Next up on Rajasthan’s multi-coloured inventory of rainbow metropolises is the Blue City, otherwise known as Jodhpur. Legend states that the colour was chosen by the Brahmins to differentiate themselves from the lower castes of India and a wander through the tumble of alleys will take you past cornflower houses and cerulean roofs, glistening lazily in the sunshine. Like any good Rajasthani city, the streets are alive with sweet-smelling spice markets and merchants peddling everything and anything from puppets to temple decorations, and of course, those famous jodhpurs. Then, standing serenely over the bustle and sights is the mighty Mehrangarh Fort, a rock-hued sentinel that’s packed with myth, history and legend. Rickshaw to the ramparts to marvel at the architecture (and the view), discover secret tunnels and create your own version of history, or get your heart-rate going with a zip-line along the turrets.

Recently the setting for David Attenborough’s Dyanasties, Bandhavgarh is undoubtedly one of India’s tiger top spots. Small by national standards, the park certainly packs a punch into its diminutive boundaries and is renowned for having one of the highest populations of the elusive felines in the country, narrowly pipping Kanha to the post. The terrain is a beguiling mix of valleys and boulders, deciduous forests and yellow grasslands, and is home to 37 species of mammal, leopard, wild boar and sloth included, 240 species of birds and 80 of butterflies, giving you plenty to look at as you scoot around in your 4x4. These smaller species are certainly not to be ignored either – more often than not their calls are the tell-tale sign that a big cat is on the prowl…