Where to go in Uganda

The name ‘Impenetrable’ isn’t just a piece of clever marketing; the web of jungle ferns and tangled vines of the 25,000 year old forest is so thick it’s almost impossible to make out where on earth you might be headed. Almost... Yes, the hiking is challenging but emerging from the undergrowth and coming eye-to-(coal black) eye with one of the mighty mountain gorillas that hide in Bwindi is spell-binding and worth every bump and bruise. As well as being one of the most ecologically-diverse and flora-rich forests on earth, it’s also the only one to support populations of both mountain gorillas and chimpanzees. So if primates are your passion, Bwindi is the place for you.

Never let it be said that Uganda doesn’t compete with Tanzania and Kenya when it comes to wildlife-watching; Queen Elizabeth National Park, nestled at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains in south-western Uganda, is a true safari gem and most certainly up there with the big players. Split in half by the Kazinga Channel (home to vast pods of hippos, toothy crocs and excellent boating safaris) the landscape is a diverse mix of wetlands, forests and open savannah dotted with glassy lakes. Watch out for lion, leopard and elephant and the 600-plus bird species and head to the remote Ishasha sector in the south to see if you are lucky enough to find the last remaining tree-climbing lions – big ticks on the bucket list all round.

Thunderous, explosive and completely spectacular, Murchison Falls is the world’s most powerful waterfall. Formed by the fast-flowing Nile as it squeezes through a seven-metre gap in the Albertine Rift Escarpment, the roaring cascade is mind-blowing from all angles. Take a boat to the base for a close-up view (watch animals drinking unconcernedly at its base) or hike to the top for the angels' aspect. The eponymous park is Uganda’s oldest and largest conservation area, and although its wildlife was a casualty of the Amin era, it’s recovering well. Leopard, lion, buffalo and elephant can all be found – as well as the elusive shoebill (which grows to 1.5 metres!).

When the guidebooks (and us!) tell you that Uganda is home to the world’s highest concentration of primates, it’s probably Kibale that they’re (we’re) referring to. With no less than 13 different species hiding in the lush rainforest, including the rare red colobus and L’Hoest’s monkeys, chimpanzee are still the top draw. As well as morning and afternoon treks with the mischievous primates, visitors can also spend a full day with the chimps as part of the habituation programme – truly an experience not to be missed. The undulating forest trails are a birder’s, butterfly-watcher’s and botanist’s dream and although there are larger mammals around, including forest elephant, sitatunga, buffalo leopard, this is a place to really enjoy the small stuff (and the primates).

Far-flung, beautiful and with a distinct air of mystique that just makes it even more special, Kidepo Valley National Park is one of the continent’s most remote national parks. Tucked into a rugged valley in the far, far north of Uganda close to the border with Sudan, the terrain varies from open savannah (expected) to dense jungle forests (totally unexpected). But it’s this diversity that supports such a large number of species and it’s the only place in the country to find wild dog, aardwolf, caracal and striped hyena. There’s also ostrich, cheetah and Rothschild’s giraffe hiding amongst the dust-devils and rocky ridges. It might take a bit of effort to get to, but you will certainly be rewarded…

With acres of rippling savannah plains dotted with bushy thickets and fed by no less than five lakes, the landscape of Lake Mburo is a safari dream. There’s not much in the way of big game but the plains game more than makes up for it with Burchell’s zebra and antelope skittering across the grasslands and topi and eland drinking nonchalantly at the lake-side. There’s also a magnificent array of birdlife in the forest areas and the park is the top spot in Uganda for nature walks and horse-riding. Conveniently located to make a superb stopover destination on the way to the gorillas in Bwindi, Lake Mburo is also really rather excellent in it’s own way, so go on, stay for a few days and you won’t be disappointed.

There are lots of places to see Africa’s endangered mountain gorilla, but Uganda’s Mgahinga may just be the most exclusive of them all. What this teeny-tiny national park lacks in size (it’s a mere 37 square kilometres!), it certainly makes up for in height, perching in the clouds at an altitude of between 2227 and 4127 metres. The park’s location, in the southwest corner of Uganda in the larger Virunga Conservation Area, means that it sees a good deal of gorilla action, but it’s important to note that there’s only one habituated family in Mgahinga itself. When you’re not gorilla trekking, look out for rare golden monkeys, hike one of the park's three volcanoes, or visit the spectacular Garama Cave with one of the local Batwa people.

Unless you have reason to fly into Kampala, we reckon Entebbe makes for a pretty good stopover choice. The former capital of the country during Uganda’s days as a British protectorate, it’s a hassle-free city with a much more relaxed atmosphere than its larger counterpart. Located on a particularly pretty stretch of Lake Victoria, there are sandy beaches to explore, beachside cafes for sundowner drinks and the beautiful Botanic Gardens to lose yourself in for a few hours. And if you find yourself here for longer, putter out to Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary by boat and spend some time with the cheeky chimps and their keepers.

Entebbe might be the pretty one, but Uganda’s capital city more than makes up the loss with its bold, dynamic character. First up is central Kampala, the usual jam of packed taxis, screeching bus drivers and vendors selling everything from chicken feet to hairbrushes, but head up Nakasero Hill and you could be in a different city. This is peaceful Kampala, home to sparkling embassies and swanky restaurants and it’s really quite pleasant. Activity-wise, history lovers will appreciate the Uganda Musuem, the Kasubi Tombs and the Lubiri Palace for a brief insight into the country’s not-so-peaceful past or, if you need to stretch your legs, try a walking tour of the different districts.

Famously pronounced as the "Source of the Nile" by British explorer Speke in 1862, Jinja has claimed its more recent fame as the adventure capital of East Africa – and if you choose to visit this pretty town, you may well find yourself tumbling down the white-water rapids on a raft (or a canoe or dinghy!), dangling from a bungee rope, or jet boating along the world’s most famous river. Looking for something slightly more dignified? Don’t cross Jinja off your list just yet. The region is stunningly beautiful and diverse, and horse rides, scenic boat trips and birdwatching walks are just some of the ways to enjoy it (and keep the heart rate steady…)