Italians call Umbria the Green Heart of Italy, and once you've wound your way through its olive-stuffed valleys and medieval hill towns, the nickname makes perfect sense. There are fewer tour buses than Tuscany, a wilder countryside (and food to match) and, 25 minutes southwest of Perugia, Borgo dei Conti Resort. A 13th-century fortified hamlet, it once belonged to the noble Raspanti family and was later reimagined as the neo-Gothic country residence of a 19th-century painter. Restored top to toe by Milanese studio Spagnulo & Partners and relaunched as Relais & Châteaux in 2024, it now combines Renaissance-hued interiors and terracotta floors with a serious spa, two restaurants and 16 hectares of olive groves and forests.
The old villa and its outbuildings form a proper borgo – chapel, cloister, formal Italian gardens and a historic Limonaia that once sheltered wintering lemon trees. Inside, the interiors weave Renaissance pigments with Etruscan terracotta from the kilns of Montone and hand-loomed fabrics from a historic Perugia workshop. The Limonaia is now Cedri, the gourmet restaurant under Ischian chef Emanuele Mazzella, while the Osteria del Borgo offers tasty Umbrian comfort food and wood-fired pizza. The modular spa fills the villa's western wing - light-filled and beautiful, it's home to an indoor jacuzzi set inside a glass bubble.
The rooms and suites are scattered across the historic Villa, the adjacent Colonica and the medieval Torre, and no two are alike. Original frescoed ceilings, exposed beams and working fireplaces are combined with rustic palettes, medieval-inspired textiles and (unexpectedly) very contemporary bathrooms. The signature Conti and Contessa suites are historical set-pieces with painted vaults and walk-in fireplaces, the Sunset Suite delivers exactly what it promises, and the garden suites offer private outdoor space. There are also designer toiletries, bathrobes and slippers throughout.
Borgo deli Conti has an outdoor pool, a tennis and padel court, a glass-walled gym tucked into the park and plenty of walking trails through the olive grove to keep you in-situ. Oh, and the cooking classes, wine tastings and on-site truffle hunting with local hunter, trained dog, and dinner afterwards.... There's also a new Bioenergetic Park that threads forest paths with outdoor wellness stations across the grounds. When you do venture out, Perugia is close for Etruscan walls, medieval alleys and excellent chocolate, while Assisi, Spello, Lake Trasimeno and the Sagrantino vineyards of Montefalco are all within easy reach.
The colour palette pulled straight from paintings by Pietro Perugino and Raphael. The deep reds, chalky ochres and dusty greens running through the rooms are the stuff of Renaissance dreams.
The Osteria del Borgo does proper wood-fired pizza, rarely featured in the glossy marketing but probably the most relaxed, enjoyable meal on the estate. And the local wines are excellent.
Accommodation is split between the historic Villa, a 20th-century neighbouring building and a medieval tower, each with its own character. Choose wisely.
Italian life served with a dollop of medieval charm and a sprinkle of chocolate-fueled revelry.
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