Mere minutes from the centre of Cheltenham, Cowley Manor is a magnificent Italianate house, recently given a sharp and slightly mischievous new life by the crowd behind some of Europe's best cocktail bars. The result? A country-house hotel that is definitely one-of-a-kind, and rooms that take you down a designer rabbit-hole of bold colours and very funky details. Inside, log fires and deep sofas keep it cosy; outside, acres of parkland roll away into lakes where swans drift among the lily pads and giant rabbits (sculptures!) hide in the grass. Spend your days swimming, wandering, or settling in at the bar, the Cotswolds outpost of the cool-as-a-cucumber Experimental Cocktail Club.




Downstairs rambles on in the best country-house way, albeit one with electric-blue furnishings and papier-mâché stags. There are several living rooms to sprawl in, a library for hiding away, a games room for rainy afternoons, a mudroom for mucky boots and wet dogs, all with the signature funk and supreme style. The restaurant, helmed by Jackson Boxer, is an elegant, wood panelled affair that leans hard on Gloucestershire farms and growers, with a streak of French swagger. The spa, meanwhile, has indoor and outdoor pools, a gym, and products made with local plants.
Each of the rooms is a variation on the same playful theme of classical bones, contemporary cheek. Think grand four-posters, limed maple and verdigris green, rattan, and flashes of glossy lacquer. Some look out over the parkland, others across the gardens, and the best have their own private terraces. Bathrooms are generous and characterful, all deep tubs and good light. But it's the extras that really sing: collagen eye masks and minibars stocked with pre-mixed Experimental cocktails. Yes please!
Start in the grounds themselves, enjoying 55 acres of Victorian gardens with cascades, winding paths and a lake to fish in. Stretch your legs and walk to the village pub for lunch, or further up into the hills to relish the view. Beyond the gates lie the honey-stone towns of the Cotswolds (Cirencester is also just to the south) and a mere 15 minutes away, the racecourse and festivals of Cheltenham. Alternatively, do nothing more taxing than carrying a book down to the lake. The team will plan any of it for you, dogs included.
Just how private it is. With only a few dozen rooms across the whole estate, it never feels crowded.
Keep an eye out for flashes of Alice in Wonderland as you wander: a door that's smaller than it should be, a sudden glimpse of checkerboard, a White Rabbit turning up where you least expect him...
You're deep in the countryside here and a fair drive down narrow lanes from the nearest station. Bring a car: you'll want it for exploring the Cotswold's towns and villages.
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800 square miles of honey-gold villages, winding lanes and quintessential English-ness.