Dar Roumana

Decorated in hand-cut tiles and stuccoed arches, the central courtyard is a sunny spot for a drink as Eddie, the resident tortoise, ambles past. Soft jazz flows into the library with its deep, mustard sofas topped with peacock-feather cushions, and out onto the rooftop terrace where you'll enjoy a sundowner with views of the medina and Atlas Mountains. Most of the time, balmy weather means breakfast on the terrace, while the characterful Franco-Moroccan restaurant has a reputation as one of the best in Fez. The menu changes with the seasons, with items that range from seared ombrine fillet, to braised local rabbit, and bitter chocolate tart for dessert.

The five suites are decked out in cedar furnishings and feature carved mosaic floors and stained glass windows. Choose from the smallest Argana Suite, which is ultra private and the only room with views over the medina; the Yasmina Suite, a favourite among honeymooners with a corner bathtub, canopy bed, and private balcony; and the newest Jannah Suite, which has floor-to-ceiling windows, jewel-tone rugs and a sitting room. The bathrooms are well-appointed, some with dual showers and others with claw-foot bathtubs.

Cook up a storm with the chef and learn to make a traditional Fassi dish, learn Arabic calligraphy with a local master, and head into the medina for a stroll round the souks, haggling for belts and bags at the medieval Chouara Tannery. After sampling Moroccan wine at dinner, take a day trip to Meknes for a tour round the vineyards, explore the Roman ruins of Volubilis or hike to the summit of Mount Zalagh. There's plenty to keep you busy here!