A tangle of ochre alleys, ivy-draped facades and piazzas that buzz until the small hours, Trastevere is the Rome the Romans go to. And tucked away at the quieter end of the neighbourhood, just at the foot of the Janiculum Hill, is Donna Camilla Savelli, a former 17th-century convent designed by Francesco Borromini. Named after the noblewoman who commissioned it in 1642, the building was home to Augustinian nuns for centuries before becoming a hotel. Its chequerboard marble floors, vaulted corridors and pretty gardens also featured in To Rome With Love - and in fact, the whole place really does feel like a beautifully preserved film set.
At the heart of Donna Camilla Savelli is a magical garden of citrus trees, a wizened olive tree, roses and a burbling 17th-century fountain — the perfect setting for breakfast on sunny mornings. Indoors, the Contempo restaurant (currently under Chef Emidio Ferro) puts a creative spin on Roman classics, and during summer, live jazz drifts in from the garden. The Elementa lounge offers drinks and lighter bites throughout the day, while upstairs, the Savelli Terrace provides sweeping views across Rome's rooftops and is ideal for an aperitivo as the light turns golden.
The 99 rooms range from cosy former nuns' quarters (now Executive and Deluxe rooms, with exposed beams and original stucco) to more contemporary Superior rooms in the newer wing, complete with enormous canopy beds. But regardless of which you choose, the historical bones are visible throughout: vaulted ceilings, travertine details and fragments of religious art on the walls. The Presidential Suite is, however, the showstopper, with a private terrace overlooking the attached church and a whirlpool tub. Views are either of the gardens or Trastevere's cobbled lanes - choose wisely!
Trastevere is best explored on foot, winding through backstreets to Piazza Santa Maria for a coffee, crossing Ponte Sisto to Campo de' Fiori's morning market, or climbing the Janiculum for panoramic views of the city (and traditional puppet shows for the kids). The hotel can also arrange vintage Vespa tours, motorboat rides along the Tiber and guided walks through the neighbourhood's less-visited corners. Wine tastings can be organised on-site, and the Vatican is a ten-minute stroll along the river, so you won't waste a minute of your time in the Eternal City.
The rooftop terrace. Grab a drink and head up for views across Rome's jumbled skyline, including St Peter's dome, the Fontanone and endless terracotta rooftops.
There's a Roman cave beneath the hotel, dating back to the 1st century AD, and a perfectly preserved nuns' refectory full of Renaissance paintings, both of which can be explored on a guided tour.
Room sizes vary quite a bit. In fact, many belonged to the nuns, so don't expect palatial proportions! Classic rooms are also in a separate annex, which may feel a bit disconnected for some.
2,000 years of history – and excellent aperitivo – in one of the prettiest capital cities in the world.
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