Emerald's thatched lapas and open-sided structures are an innovative blend of global designs. You enter through the hive-like reception area, from which you get some idea of the forested valley below. A broad deck clings to the hillside, adjoining the outdoor pool and restaurant – the heart of the resort (there's also a pizzeria). There's a well-equipped gym with a view, a spa that supplies a full menu of treatments, an ATM cash machine and, for campers, a large campsite.
Accommodation is in 82 rooms scattered around the property, from small to presidential. All are comfortable (and have wi-fi and aircon), but the larger, more costly suites have better views and more generous elbow room. Elegantly designed and furnished with traditional art, the rooms reflect Bali-meets-Africa design, with thatched roofs, and lovely woodwork and fabrics. Four-poster, mosquito-draped beds are standard. Bathrooms are en suite and outfitted with high-pressure showers and double basins.
The town of Arba Minch is within walking distance, though tuk-tuk transport is available. Here you can explore the markets and a few local restaurants. But the most rewarding cultural experiences lie further afield: the Dorze village with its beehive-like tukule huts; the Hamer with their bull-jumping right-of-passage ceremony; and the colourful weekly markets at Turni, Dimeka or Alduba. The nearby Crocodile Ranch was created in 1984 to preserve the population – catch the feeding frenzy on Mondays and Thursdays.
Meet the most remarkable indigenous groups in Africa in this bizarre land, untouched by time.