If walls could talk, the frescoed ceilings of this 1870 grande dame would have stories that'd make your head spin. Picture this: Christian Dior taking his final breath in one of the suites, Grace Kelly swanning through the lobby, and a young Puccini composing at the piano whilst Marie Curie debated radioactivity over aperitivos. This isn't just any old Tuscan pile - it's where Italian Art Nouveau maestro Galileo Chini went properly wild with his paintbrush in 1901, creating celestial ceilings populated by floating cherubs and ethereal figures that still stop guests mid-stride today.Set bang in the centre of Montecatini Terme (yes, that's thermal springs central), the hotel sprawls across 20,000 square metres of century-old parkland. The 120 rooms maintain their period swagger with antique Liberty furniture and marble bathrooms that wouldn't look out of place in a Visconti film. But don't mistake all this historical pomp for dusty museum vibes - there's a thoroughly modern 800-square-metre spa lurking beneath all that Belle Époque beauty, complete with Rasul baths and enough treatment rooms to keep a small army of stressed executives purring.
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Beyond the obvious historical swagger, there's surprising depth to the facilities here. The outdoor pool sits prettily in the parkland with its own Paul Pool Bistrò for lazy lunches under the pergola. A clay tennis court hides in the shade of ancient trees (equipment and instructor available if your backhand needs work), whilst the indoor spa complex offers everything from emotive showers to that heated pool where under-15s are thankfully banned. Three restaurants keep things interesting on the culinary front. Le Magnolie serves refined Italian beneath those famous frescoes, the poolside bistrò does Mediterranean grill classics, whilst the Gli Archi lounge bar in the magnificent Salone degli Archi provides the perfect setting for evening cocktails with live piano tinkling in the background - very 1920s, very civilised.
All 120 rooms come with the expected mod cons - satellite TV, minibar, air conditioning that actually works - but it's the period details that steal the show. Original Liberty-style furniture, proper antiques rather than reproductions, and bathrooms finished in Italian marble or intricate mosaic work. The standard rooms are already generously proportioned, but the 29 suites really dial up the drama with separate living areas, some blessed with those magnificent Chini-frescoed ceilings. Room views vary between the park, internal courtyard, or town - honestly, the park views win every time, especially from the upper floors where you can properly appreciate those 20,000 square metres of green. Just note that whilst the bones are beautiful, some of the soft furnishings could use refreshing - this is heritage with a capital H, complete with the odd creaky floorboard and temperamental plumbing that adds to the character (or doesn't, depending on your tolerance for quirks). The recent additions of the GHLP apartments offer more space and contemporary luxury whilst maintaining the historical atmosphere. Perfect if you want to channel your inner Italian aristocrat without sacrificing modern comforts.
Those Chini frescoes aren't just pretty decoration - dining beneath his swooping art nouveau masterpieces in Le Magnolie restaurant transforms a simple Tuscan dinner into something rather theatrical. And that's before you've even cracked open the wine list.
Skip the crowds at the public thermal baths and book the hotel's private Spa Suite for two - it comes with its own Rasul bath and hydromassage setup. The hotel has special arrangements with the famous Terme Tettuccio if you're determined to take the waters properly, but honestly, why bother leaving?
Despite the five-star billing, some rooms are showing their age around the edges - charming if you're into authentic period character, less so if you're expecting pristine modern luxury. The breakfast also gets mixed reviews for a property of this calibre.
Tuscany's belle époque spa town of healing waters, grand hotels and unexpected glamour.
