With its marble colonnades, morning mineral water rituals & long lunches in the hills, Northern Tuscany rewards the curious traveller over those who stick to the guidebook.
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Once the playground of European aristocracy, this thermal spa town retains all its art nouveau swagger with none of the stuffiness. Picture palm-lined boulevards, Liberty-style architecture dripping with frescoes, and mineral-rich waters that have been drawing the health-conscious (and hypochondriacs) since Roman times. But scratch beneath the genteel surface and you'll find buzzing aperitivo bars, fantastic restaurants that locals actually frequent, and a funicular railway that whisks you up to medieval Montecatini Alto for sunset views. It's wellness with a wink – therapeutic waters by day, Tuscan wines by night.
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The perfect antidote to Tuscany's tourist trail – pamper yourself in thermal spas, then feast like a local in trattorias the coach tours haven't discovered yet.
Skip the famous Tettuccio spa for the locals' favourite, La Salute – smaller crowds, the same miraculous waters, and you can still admire the grand architecture from the outside.
Those "healing waters" are rather unpalatable – think warm, salty eggs. But hey, Verdi and Puccini swore by them, so perhaps genius requires sacrifice.
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