Kigali Marriott Hotel

The Marriott's sleek luxury may come as a surprise to anyone familiar with Rwanda's recent history. But Kigali has grown and moved forward. The hotel's imposing contemporary facade is unmistakable, with its large windows and palm-fronted entrance. Bellhops smile broadly as you enter the lobby (itself a welcoming, light-filled space with clusters of seating, and wall of locally woven bowls). There are four on-site restaurants, a good spa for post-travel unwinding, a pool, and rambling gardens laced with pathways.

The 254 rooms come in a variety of sizes, from standard rooms (contemporary furnishings, floor-to-ceiling windows, spacious en-suite bathroom with walk-in shower and bath) to the executive suites, with their large lounges, dining areas and the best corner views of the cityscape. The presidential suite has all the above, plus a beautiful rooftop terrace. All rooms are furnished to a high standard in neutral colours and are impeccably clean. There's aircon throughout, and wi-fi. You won't be disappointed.

While in Kigali, do as the Kigalians do: eat, drink, shop, wander. If you have a day, don't miss out on exploring this vibrant city and its many attractions, from open-air and farmers' markets to textile showrooms. Buy traditional handicrafts and woven baskets at the colourful Caplaki Crafts Village. There are some excellent restaurants too. If you're interested in the country's complicated, painful past, take in a city tour to see museums and historic sites, and meet genocide survivors.