Most visitors to Tuscany head for the well-trodden hills of Chianti or the honeypot towns further north. But those in the know make a beeline for the Maremma, a wild, sun-drenched stretch of southern coastline where cowboys still herd long-horned cattle and the beaches remain gloriously empty. It's here, on a 500-hectare estate of vineyards, olive groves and cypress-lined avenues, that you'll find the former summer residence of Grand Duke Leopold II, L'Andana. The Moretti family (of Bellavista and Petra wine fame) have turned it into a refined country retreat with a Michelin-starred restaurant, ESPA spa and the Tyrrhenian Sea just a few kilometres down the road.
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The main villa and converted farmstead are connected by a bright, glass-walled winter garden that doubles as a lovely coffee spot. Warm terracotta tones, Florentine silks and antique furnishings (styled by the former editor of AD Italy, no less) give the communal spaces a lived-in elegance. La Trattoria Enrico Bartolini occupies the old granary — think open kitchen, wood-fired oven and vineyard views — while the more relaxed La Villa restaurant has breakfast and daily lunch menus. Two outdoor pools overlook the rolling Maremma hills, and the ESPA spa has a heated vitality pool, hammam and a sauna.
Accommodation is spread across four buildings, each with its own character. La Villa's 33 rooms are the most traditional with their stone fireplaces, warm ochre walls and views over the countryside. La Casa (a minute's wander away) has 14 rooms with a farmhouse feel, private kitchenettes and terraces framed by olive trees and Mediterranean macchia. Il Granaio's two-bedroom apartments are the family-friendly pick, while the standalone La Scuderia villa (four bedrooms, private pool and its own garden) is the full Tuscan fantasy.
Hop on one of the estate's mountain bikes and pedal through the vineyards to the coast, or take the complimentary shuttle to the beach club on the swishing Tyrrhenian shoreline. Back on the grounds, there's tennis, a small golf course, bocce and even five-a-side football. Wine tastings in the estate cellar are a must, and the private cooking classes with the chef are brilliant fun for all ages. Venture further afield for horseback riding through the Maremma Nature Park, boat trips to Elba and Giglio, or a day in the medieval hilltop town of Castiglione della Pescaia.
The estate produces its own wine and olive oil, so you're quite literally tasting the landscape with every meal. Book into a cooking class and you can take some tricks home with you, too!
There's an adults-only pool tucked away from the main one, far quieter and long enough for proper laps. Perfect for a lazy afternoon with a glass of the estate's Acquagiusta rosé.
The Michelin-starred trattoria only opens for dinner from May to September. Having your own car is also handy for exploring beyond the estate.
Where the Romans go for sea, space and a wilder side of Tuscany.
