Maremma & Coastal Tuscany is the one that got away with wild beaches, butteri cowboys & an unhurried coastline that the tour groups haven't yet found.
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Maremma is the version of Italy that the locals keep for themselves. In fact, the sweep of coast on Italy’s western edge is a bit like Tuscany on a summer holiday, its sleeves rolled up, and much less manicured. Along the coast, the mood is wild and wide with enormous stretches of sand backed by dunes and umbrella pines. At Castiglione della Pescaia, the beaches sit beneath a medieval hilltop town, while further south, Monte Argentario rises in a rocky headland from the Tyrrhenian Sea, the harbour towns of Porto Ercole and Porto Santo Stefano offering the perfect spot for seafood and a glass of Morellino di Scansano. Then, there’s Maremma Natural Park. Stretching for miles along the protected shoreline, it’s patrolled not by lifeguards but by the butteri, Italy's last cowboys, who've ridden these plains since Etruscan times and once famously outperformed Buffalo Bill's troupe in Rome.
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The Saturnia hot springs: ancient, free, steaming cascades in the middle of a farmer's field. Bliss.
Hike the eerie Vie Cave near Sovana — towering Etruscan corridors carved 20 metres into solid rock.
This is remote, rural Italy. A car is essential, and don't expect the polished tourism of northern Tuscany.
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