Phu Chaisai Mountain Resort & Spa

Ensconced by lush trees, the open-air restaurant serves a menu of Thai, Burmese and Akha dishes, as well as international fare. Much of the ingredients are grown in the gardens or supplied by local fishermen and markets. Enjoy strolls past the koi pond and down to the infinity pool, which feels legitimately in the jungle, and choose a thatched daybed to doze on. The spa is a treat and uses techniques passed down for generations; the volcanic lava stone massage is one to remember.

Phu Chaisai has a collection of 50 thatched cottages but standing on your balcony, you'd think it was just one. Crafted from bamboo, each cottage has a king-sized bed draped in netting (do watch the sunrise from bed), scenic terrace, and a sitting area decorated with hand-stitched hill tribe cushions. The favourite is the cottage with a private pool, large alfresco bathtub and blue, floral motifs. Especially popular with honeymooners, the Love Nest is in an uber-private location with incredible mountain views.

When you're not soaking in the pool as the birds flutter nearby, or learning to cook with a master chef, there's plenty to do. Take a trip to the local village to peruse the bustling markets and grab a cup of Arabica coffee; explore the landscape on a Mongolian horse; or hike to find a serene jungle temple and stop off for a restorative dip in the hot springs. If you're visiting between December and January, you'll have the chance to go river rafting too.