Venice's Dorsoduro district is the city's arty, quieter side that the Venetians prefer to keep for themselves. And right at its southern tip, where the Grand Canal opens into St Mark's Basin, sits this top-tier palazzo with one of the most enviable waterfront positions in the city. Built in 1892 for the Genovese family on the site of a medieval monastery, its Gothic facade now conceals boldly contemporary and fabulous interiors. With the Peggy Guggenheim Collection next door and the Basilica della Salute as a neighbour, the location alone is worth the visit... But the food and the staff seal the deal.
Behind the ornate Gothic arches, the mood shifts dramatically to sleek, contemporary design, all clean lines, a purple-hued lounge bar and changing art exhibitions that nod to the Guggenheim next door. Antinoo's restaurant, named after a Roman coin unearthed during renovations, is split between a striking all-white dining room and a moody red salon, both overlooking the canal. Chef Giancarlo Bellino's modern Venetian dishes — think scampi in saor and lagoon-inspired sea bass — are suitably delicious.
Each of the 50 rooms is individually styled with rich reds, elaborate wallpapers and gold-leaf bathrooms designed to look like unwrapped candy wrappers (a quirky touch you'll either adore or raise an eyebrow at). The real treasures are the canal-facing suites, several of which have Juliet balconies and soaring, centuries-old wooden ceilings. The bi-level suites offer 180-degree panoramas across to St Mark's, while the Presidential Suite has genuine gold-leaf finishes and sleeps up to six. Minibars, air-con and Wi-Fi are standard.
Step out the back entrance and you're immediately in a labyrinth of narrow Dorsoduro lanes. Wander to Saverio Pastor's workshop to watch a master craftsman carve traditional gondola fittings, or cross the Ponte dei Pugni (the bridge where Venetians once held sanctioned fistfights). The Guggenheim, Accademia Gallery and Ca' Rezzonico are all within a ten-minute stroll. Arrive or depart by water taxi to the hotel's private dock for maximum theatre, and ask the concierge about Murano glass-blowing excursions or private boat tours through the lagoon's quieter channels.
Sipping a spritz on the canalside terrace as vaporetti and gondolas drift past at sunset.
Bag a table on the tiny outdoor deck at Antinoo's for dinner. There are only a handful and they are absolutely worth snapping up.
The bold, contemporary interiors won't appeal to those seeking a classic Venetian look. The courtyard-facing rooms also lack the canal views that make the pricier suites sing.
A slowly sinking city where gondolas glide along a labyrinth of enchanting canals.
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