There's a stone house in Phaplu, tucked into pine-forested slopes 18 miles south of Everest, where Sir Edmund Hillary spent months at a time. He called it his "happy place" and declared the views the finest he'd ever seen... Built in the 1970s through a collaboration between Italian explorer Count Monzino and a local Sherpa family, the house has now been lovingly - and beautifully - restored into an intimate ten-room retreat. Expect hand-painted Buddhist murals, artefacts from Monzino's legendarily lavish expedition, and a team of local people dedicated to revealing their magnificent homeland.
Walls blaze with hand-painted Thangka murals – Buddhist deities, polka-dot dragons, blue-faced demons peering from shadows – by Sherpa master Khapa Rinzi. The communal dining table sits by a roaring fire where a private chef serves organic produce from the garden: momos, dal bhat, thukpa, plus foraged morels and wild fern. A small library holds deep leather chairs and mountaineering history and to unwind, there's a candlelit spa, sauna and resident yoga master – daily massages are standard.
10 en-suite bedrooms spread across two floors, each uniquely adorned with hand-painted murals, antique furnishings and locally woven cashmere blankets. All rooms have hardwood floors, fine cotton linens and hot water bottles for cold mountain nights but for something extra, nab the Monzino Suite on the top floor with its arching ceilings and library nook. But what you won't find are any TVs, telephones or minibars – this is deliberate disconnection at its finest. The house is typically taken over by a single group, so expect the whole place to yourselves.
Trek ancient yak trade routes through rhododendron forests to Pikey Peak – Hillary's favourite viewpoint – with eight of the world's fourteen highest mountains visible in one sensational panorama. Visit Chiwong Monastery, founded by the owner's ancestor, where saffron-robed monks welcome you for morning meditation. Go mountain biking with local youth guides, camp in traditional ger tents under blindingly clear stars, or take a helicopter fly-by of Everest. Back at base, cooking classes reveal the secrets of Nepali cuisine, best enjoyed with fireside stories from your Sherpa hosts.
Hillary proclaimed these mountain views the best he'd ever seen – quite the endorsement from a man who conquered Everest! And during mornings here, watching the peaks turn gold, you'll understand why.
The gambling table in the sitting room? It was carried to Everest base camp in 1973 along with leather sofas, silver cutlery and risotto. The Italians knew how to climb in style.
The house operates only around ten trips per year, so you'll need to plan well ahead. And as for WiFi, it'll handle emails and texts, but leave the video calls for another time.
A land of legendary trails and views that recalibrate your sense of scale.
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