The Ruth Hotel

The three-storey hotel centres around a grassy courtyard that invites you to laze on a lounge chair beneath the poolside arcade or sip espresso in the sun. At night, it's illuminated with neon lights. This is a B&B establishment, and the breakfasts are plentiful, with à la carte offerings available all day. There's a gym and a spa with a good range of services, from massage therapies to beauty treatments, and free wi-fi.

The Ruth's 30 rooms are clean and brightly lit, if on the small side, especially the bathrooms. That said, they're perfectly comfortable, with quality mattresses and linens, remote-controlled aircon, hot water and really fluffy towels. Note that some rooms are without windows and none have particularly inspiring views. Room service is offered, though you're unlikely to want to spend more time holed-up than necessary.

The architecture of Gondar is a fascinating overlay of Portuguese, Indian and Ethiopian influences, with some 20th-century Italian piazzas for good measure. Spend a few hours on a guided tour of the Royal Enclosure of Fasil Ghebbi to see Fasilides' Castle, with ruins of a banquet hall, a library, churches, and the empress's castle. Beyond the fortress are more churches, the most impressive of which is Debre Berhan Selassie. Don't miss a delicious traditional lunch at well-known Four Sisters Restaurant.