Southwest Sicily doesn't feature in most first-time itineraries, but that's exactly what keeps it interesting. Wedged between the archaeological wonder of Agrigento and the port of Sciacca, this stretch of coast is quieter, more rugged and considerably less photographed than its more famous cousins. And so, amid 230 hectares of olive groves and citrus orchards, Rocco Forte dreamed up his only purpose-built resort: a collection of low-rise terracotta-and-ochre pavilions that look as though they've always been here. Days tend to revolve around the Irene Forte Spa, eight restaurants serving food largely grown on the estate, two championship golf courses and a two-kilometre stretch of private beach. Bliss.
Designed by architect Flavio Albanese and decorated by Olga Polizzi — Rocco Forte's sister — the resort is focused on traditional Sicilian geometry: clean lines, local stone and terracotta hues. The facilities are outstanding, from the 60-metre split-level infinity pool to Zagara, the fine-dining restaurant set among bronze sculptures and lemon-scented greenery. Scirocco Bar and Liolà, the clifftop trattoria, provide contrast: one is all low lights and botanical cocktails, the other wood-fired and convivial. And of course, the Irene Forte Spa, nestled amid the wild olive groves, is a destination in itself.
Rooms and suites are housed in low-rise pavilions spread across the estate, all opening onto private terraces or balconies with views of the sea or countryside. Colour-wise, they are all ochre, polished concrete and earthy printed fabrics, whilst beautiful botanical motifs drawn from antique Sicilian maiolica tiles thread through the soft furnishings. Standard rooms are generously proportioned, and the pool suites in the Forte have additional four-poster beds, walk-in wardrobes and private pools. Three- and four-bedroom villas are also available for groups and families.
There's a fleet of bikes for guests to explore the winding trails around the resort, whilst the water sports club has diving, kayaking and sailing covered. There are also two Kyle Phillips championship golf courses and a nine-hole par-3, ranked among Europe's finest, as well as tennis lessons at the Sunball Tennis Academy's clay courts. For a spot of R&R, the Irene Forte Spa is a 4,000 square-metre temple of wellness, with four thalassotherapy pools, a Finnish sauna and a steam room. Off-site, the Valley of the Temples at Agrigento is just under an hour away, and the dazzling white Scala dei Turchi cliffs are even closer.
Dinner at Nagori, Fulvio Pierangelini's restaurant inside an ancient Saracen tower, where Japanese techniques are applied to Sicilian produce with spectacular results.
The Scirocco Bar at sunset is a must. Named after the hot African wind that sweeps the coastline, it's all about botanical cocktails served with a side of handsome Mediterranean views.
With an excellent kids' club and generous family suites, Verdura is great for families — but perhaps not the intimate retreat some couples may have in mind.
A place set apart, where history runs deep and the edges are a little wilder.
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