Five Volcanoes Boutique Hotel

A double-storey thatched structure sits at the heart of the hotel – it's where meals (limited options, all good) are served and guests convene pre- and post explorations. From the open-sided platform you'll have sublime views of the volcano peaks, whether you're dining at the peripheral tables or lounging on the interior seating. A network of grass and flowerbeds lie between the buildings, and there's a slightly elevated pool surrounded by loungers. Wi-fi in the main areas is reasonably reliable.

The 11 double/twin bedrooms are decorated in that reassuring comfort-meets-luxury style. Arranged into smaller blocks throughout the garden, they have solar-powered lamps (in case of power cuts), mini-bars, tea/coffee-making facilities, and wi-fi (although signal is better in the main area). En-suite bathrooms have hot showers, toiletries, slippers and dressing gowns. Seven deluxe rooms have more space, plus heating, aircon and satellite TV. The pretty two-bedroom cottages are ideal for families, with a semi-private garden area with hammocks and chairs.

This region has the densest population of mountain gorillas on earth, with several habituated family groups. Once sighted, you're given an hour to watch and photograph these endearing creatures in their natural habitat. The dry seasons (mid-December–February, and June–September) are more comfortable for treks, which are hard work and can last for several hours. A decent level of fitness is important. It's an easier hike to see the golden monkeys, which jump and leap amusingly through their bamboo forest.