Heritance Kandalama

Bawa's vision unfolds dramatically with a compressed tunnel entrance that suddenly bursts into a soaring lobby with jaw-dropping lake panoramas. There are three swimming spots including a show-stopping infinity number and a natural, rock-hewn pool, whilst restaurants include Kanchana for exceptional buffets accompanied by panoramic views and seventh-floor Kaludiya offers fusion cuisine. It's the flagship cave dinner – candlelit feasting in a natural cavern with haunting flute music – that is utterly magical, however. Keep an eye out for Ena De Silva's batiks throughout the hotel, and book in at the Coco Spa for a proper pamper.

There are 152 rooms and suites, each set at slightly different angles so no two views are the same. Timber panelling warms the spaces whilst floor-to-ceiling windows makes you feel as if you are suspended in the greenery. The superior rooms offer forest views, luxury rooms frame distant Sigiriya Rock, and panoramic rooms do as the name suggests and deliver sweeping vistas across the landscapes. The suites have additional sitting areas and 12-jet Jacuzzis, but all rooms have beautiful linens, efficient air-con, rain showers and custom toiletries. And don't be surprised when macaques peer through mid-shower...

Sigiriya Rock Fortress and Dambulla Cave Temple are under 30 minutes away and both are genuine must-sees. Early safaris to Minneriya or Kaudulla offer the chance to watch 'The Gathering', where hundreds of elephants congregate together (June-September). You can also join the resident naturalist for forest walks to the ancient Aligala Caves, spot endemic birds (there are 233 resident species), or mountain bike across the rugged trails. Boat rides across Kandalama Lake provide serene sundowners while a visit to Puranagama village, a picture of traditional Sri Lankan life unchanged by centuries.