Les Jardins de Skoura

Built on the grounds of an old olive farm, Les Jardins is formed mostly of rammed mud and its decor is suitably rustic. At a candlelit table under the olive trees or beside the roaring fire, you'll enjoy four courses with dishes like chilled melon and ginger soup, hearty tagines, and coriander-spiced citrus terrine. It's a set menu so any dietary needs should be mentioned in advance. When you're not out exploring the natural surrounds, find a spot to relax by the pool or on the rooftop terrace - and goggle at the soaring views of the Atlas Mountains.

With walls of smooth tadelakt, high ceilings and soft Berber rugs, the rooms are unfussy, understated, and really rather cosy. The suites have a separate living room with a fireplace, leather poufs and antique decor, and the largest of them, the Atlas Suite, comes with a private terrace and one spectacular view. There are no TVs but you'll fall asleep to the sound of chirping crickets and wind rustling through the palms. Bliss.

The landscape is certainly worth discovering, whether it's horseback riding through the Draa Valley or trekking to Dades Gorge, where you'll walk down the 'Street of the Thousand Kasbahs' before cooling off in the mountain river. Visit a remote Berber village and join a family for their mint tea ceremony, and hike to see the giant Merzouga dunes or the famous (and very photogenic) town of Ait Ben Haddou.