Essaouira
In the running for 'The World's Most Creative Hotel', Salut Maroc is what happens when a passionate British designer falls head over heels for a crumbling 18th-century merchant's house. Helen Howat spent five painstaking years transforming this former Jewish trading post into a kaleidoscopic celebration of Moroccan craftsmanship. Perched directly on Essaouira's UNESCO-listed ramparts with the Atlantic crashing below, the riad's ten rooms each tell the story of a different Moroccan city through explosive zellije tilework, handcrafted copper bathtubs, and vintage finds. Between the rooftop restaurant's sunset dinners and the traditional hammam's restorative rituals, this is Morocco at its most wonderfully, unapologetically vibrant.
This isn't your typical riad restoration – it's a full-blown love letter to Moroccan artisanship. The ground floor dazzles with a bespoke 54-panel wall hanging alongside mid-century furniture and a sunken library painted in fiery tones. Ascend the multicoloured staircase to discover the traditional hammam adorned in signature zellije designs. The rooftop restaurant steals the show with panoramic Atlantic views over the historic ramparts, complete with bronze cannons. Tuck into locally-caught fish and Moroccan specialities, and on most evenings, live music adds to the festive feel.
Ten rooms, ten different Moroccan memoirs. The ocean-inspired Mogador suite channels sea greens and aquas, while Marrakesh explodes in sunburst patterns reminiscent of the famous tanneries. Fez takes inspiration from mosque interiors and the city's distinctive roof tiles, whilst the Berber room features tribal patterns and that famous portrait of Princess Aisha. Every room boasts handcrafted beds, hand-beaten copper bathtubs (no showers – just handheld attachments), and windows that frame either the ramparts or the endless Atlantic. The Casablanca suite offers the most space and sea views.
Essaouira's medina unfolds right outside your door – wander the souks for Berber carpets and silver jewellery, or head to the fishing port to watch the morning catch being landed. The long sandy beach beckons for windsurfing and kitesurfing (the Atlantic winds are legendary), whilst horseback riding at nearby Sidi Kaouki offers a different perspective. Evening entertainment often includes live Gnawa music on the rooftop, where sunset cocktails and the sound of crashing waves below make for visceral memories to store away.
Each and every surface offers artistry and intrigue, even the staircases where each step is uniquely painted.
Helen designed every single textile in the hotel herself – ask the staff about the stories behind specific pieces.
The music from the rooftop restaurant can be quite lively well into the evening, so pack earplugs if you're planning early nights. Also, there are no lifts – expect narrow, winding stairs.
Start with a recommended trip or create one from scratch
Cosmopolitan, cool and with not a care in the world, Essaouira is chilled-out with a capital ‘C’.
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