Hemingway's Retreat Kigali

Built of stone and white stucco, the Retreat structures are simple and straight-edged. The flamboyance becomes evident in the garden, with its towering palms and exotic flowerbeds offering shade and colour in equal measure. The restaurant occupies a light-flooded open-plan space, but meals are often served around the pool (do try the tomato/egg shakshuka at breakfast). There's a (very) well-stocked bar with a teak counter top, and, in the grounds, the crystal-clear pool, a hot tub, sauna, and open-air gym.

With their peaked ceilings and double doors, the 20 rooms are light and airy, with private patios in front that overlook the communal garden. Second patios at the rear of each room are furnished with a small table and chairs, ideal for romantic evenings under the stars. Indoors, the mattresses are deeply comfortable, made of organic cotton in the UK, and draped in mosquito netting at night. Bathrooms are spacious and luxurious with rainwater walk-in showers indoor and out.

The Retreat's on-site facilities will help you unwind, but it also offers a host of tempting itineraries to help you explore vibrant Kigali, and even venture into the wild interior. The city buzzes with fabric markets, open-air craft and food markets, art and history, and culinary highlights. Delve into Rwanda's complicated and violent past, discreetly and sensitively, with a competent local guide. Or head off on a guided gorilla trek, or to explore Rwanda's lush interior.