Forming part of the ancient Nakasendo route, one of the main connections between Edo and Kyoto, the Kiso Valley is a stunning location from which to explore Alpine Japan. With a name inspired by the beauty of its rivers and mountains, Yama Mizuki Urara Tsutaya is, needless to say, surrounded by astonishing scenery. The ryoken's design celebrates these views from every corner including the large, spring-fed onsen, which looks out across the mountains. It is authentic in every sense of the word, from the dining to the array of activities on offer – and you can even learn about local crafts and cooking, among other things.
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Meals are served in the simply-set dining room furnished with traditional, low-slung tables and guests are treated to banquets of kaiseki cuisine only using ingredients found in Kisoji. Breakfast can be served in a cypress 'bento box', made fresh with seasonal specialties. With stunning views of the mountains, you'll also find a large onsen bath in the main area, well known for its positive effects on the skin and muscles.
The rooms have a subtlety and warmth to them with their tatami floors, sliding screen doors and roll-out futons to sleep on (although there are western-style rooms and beds as well). They are truly classically Japanese and you'll also find low lacquered tables and large wooden baths – open-air for the ultimate view. Striking mountain vistas can also be enjoyed through the wide windows and you're unlikely to ever tire of them.
There are a number of hiking routes close to the ryokan, including the journey to Nojiri where you can spot asiatic black bears and the famous Magome. And nothing beats a swim in the river after a day of exploring Atera Gorge! Otherwise, enjoy watching various Japanese crafting techniques including a form of woodturning known as rokuro-zaiku and the making of traditional washi paper, visit local museums housed in former inns, or visit the fascinating ruins of Tsumago Castle.
The views of the surrounding mountains and valley are striking and can be enjoyed from nearly every corner of the property.
The ryokan is mere minutes from the Kiso-Fukushima Station, but it's important to remember that the day trips require a fair bit of planning.
In certain rooms, the bathrooms are shared with other guests, which is something to be aware of.
Unlock a world of mysterious onsens and mountain pools where wild macaques soak, and truly get away from it all.
