Often called Bali's rice bowl, Tabanan is where you'll find the real heart of the island, far from the southern beach crowds. This is the Bali of your imagination: emerald rice terraces cascading down hillsides, ancient temples shrouded in mist, and black sand beaches where you'll often find more local fishermen than tourists.
The crown jewel here is UNESCO-listed Jatiluwih, where the rice terraces create what might be the most photogenic agricultural landscape on Earth. These centuries-old terraces, maintained using traditional Subak irrigation methods, ripple across the countryside like giant green steps. Unlike its more famous cousin Tegalalang, here you can still watch farmers tending their fields using methods passed down through generations.
Then there's the majestic Tanah Lot temple, perched dramatically on its rocky offshore perch. But venture inland and you'll discover equally impressive temples without the crowds - like Pura Luhur Batukaru, nestled on the slopes of Mount Batukaru, where ancient stones drip with moss and the air is thick with incense and mystery.