Tessa discovers dreamy Japan
The ‘Land of the Rising Sun’ was everything it promised and more
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4.9/5 (884 reviews)
Osaka operates on a different frequency to the rest of Japan. Where Tokyo dazzles with its precision and Kyoto seduces with refinement, this former merchant capital disarms with directness and a philosophy locals call kuidaore – eating until you drop. It's a city where strangers strike up conversations, comedy is woven into everyday chat, and the back alleys of Tenma and Shinsekai reveal standing-only bars serving hundred-yen highballs beside Michelin-starred kushikatsu joints. Start in the neon chaos of Dotonbori, then slip into cobblestoned Hozenji Yokocho for intimate counter dining. During the day, wander the retro Blade Runner atmosphere of Shinsekai beneath Tsutenkaku Tower, or lose an afternoon in Nakazakicho's wooden-house cafés. Osaka also makes a superb base for the wider Kansai region – Nara's deer park, Koyasan's mountaintop temples and Himeji Castle are all within easy reach.
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