What to do in Antibes

Antibes is the Riviera's grown-up. It has ramparts, a covered Provençal market and a Picasso museum inside the Château Grimaldi, where the artist spent a prolific autumn in 1946. Down in Port Vauban, some of the Mediterranean's biggest yachts moor in the shadow of the star-shaped Fort Carré. Round the cape, Juan-les-Pins is louder and sandier, with late bars and the Jazz à Juan festival every July (Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis both played the pine grove here). We'd also slip inland to Vallauris for a private visit to a celebrated ceramicist's atelier, in the town where Picasso first got his hands dirty with clay. Antibes for peace, Juan for the party.