What to do in Bhaktapur

Of the Kathmandu Valley's three ancient royal cities, Bhaktapur is the one that feels most like stepping back in time. Cars are largely banned from the old town, and without the honking chaos of Kathmandu, you can actually hear the rhythm of daily life – potters spinning clay in sunlit squares, the slap of wet rice paper drying on rooftops, and the murmur of locals gathered around public fountains that have been in use for centuries. Durbar Square here is a masterpiece of Newari craftsmanship, dominated by the towering five-storey Nyatapola Temple and the ornate 55-Window Palace, its façade a riot of intricate woodcarving. Pottery Square is the place to watch artisans shape traditional pots by hand, surrounded by thousands of terracotta pieces drying in neat rows. And before you leave, do as the locals do: grab a bowl of juju dhau, the famously creamy 'king of yoghurt' that Bhaktapur has been producing for generations. It's richer, tangier and altogether better than anything you'll find elsewhere in Nepal. Quieter and less hurried than its neighbours, Bhaktapur rewards those who linger – ideally with a guesthouse stay to experience the old town after the day-trippers leave.