Where to go in Brazilian Amazon

The meeting place of luscious rainforest, the tawny Cerrado savannah and Brazil’s famous Pantanal wetlands, Mato Grosso represents the Amazon in transition. But that just means you get the best of three worlds. For one thing, the foliage is far less dense so you’ll find the wildlife is easier to spot, whether you’re after howler monkeys or hyacinth macaws – and the birding is particularly glorious in the north. There is also a superb list of adventures on which to embark, from boating along the shimmering Cristalino River and swimming in clear waterfall pools to exploring the forested trails of Alta Floresta. And hey, look in the right place and you may just spy a jaguar staring back at you.

Where the quilted tree canopies barely give way to sunlight and rivers resemble vast, inland seas, this is the Amazon at its most primordial. The landscapes go through monumental shifts with the seasons, transforming from flooded forests where you can literally canoe amongst the treetops to idyllic river beaches in the Anavilhanas Archipelago. Wildlife encounters may be hard-won in this corner of the Amazon but they are exceptional when fortune smiles on you – look out for everything from pink river dolphins to Amazon manatees, three-toed sloths to anacondas the size of tree trunks (the rarest of the rare). You’ll also have the privilege of meeting and learning from indigenous peoples, who live according to the rhythms of nature. And in case you think you’ve heard it all, get ready for the 2 million-strong, jungle-bound city of Manaus, where the ‘Meeting of the Waters’ takes place.

A singularly magnificent place where snaking rivers wind their way through lowland forest, before finally meeting their end on the Atlantic Coast, Pará is a reintroduction to the Amazon you thought you knew. In areas like Alter do Chão, you might believe you’re in the Caribbean with its white-sand river beaches and crystal-clear water, while inland adventures will take you into the realm of endemic birdlife, armadillos and sloths. Within the immense Xingu basin, discover a stronghold of ancient tradition and deep-seated culture, where the indigenous peoples demonstrate their powerful bond with the wild. Depending on the time of year, you could also catch an array of colourful festivals. From cruising beside pink river dolphins to sampling unique cuisines, Pará will have you mesmerised.