Best hotels in Burgundy

Puligny-Montrachet is a working grower village with a share of four grand crus and famously almost no cellars, because the water table sits too high to dig them. On the square, a 19th-century inn has been taken over by COMO and reworked by Paola Navone, who kept the zinc bar and the beams and brought in sage, petrol blue and a woven willow wall ten metres tall. The sommelier arrived long before any of it and has pushed the list past 17,000 bottles, nearly all of them Burgundian, which in a village this size is quite the statement.

Behind an unassuming door sits not just one building but a clutch of old Beaune houses, bought up one at a time by the same family and gently knocked into each other. The result is a warren of courtyards: one timbered in the 1570s around a Renaissance stair tower, another older still with an artesian well the kitchen draws on for summer breakfasts – and both listed. Below ground, the cellars hold more than a thousand bottles going back to the 1920s, Hospices auction lots among them. We can't think of a better address in town.