Where to go in Cambodia's beaches

If ‘tropical paradise’ had a picture, we’re pretty sure it would look something like the Koh Rong archipelago. Koh Rong itself is the second largest of Cambodia’s islands, 45-minutes by speedboat from Sihanoukville, and was, until relatively recently, a forgotten wilderness of jungle-trimmed sand. Fast-forward a few years and the island became something of a name on the backpacker circuit; but fast-forward a few more to the establishment of some of Cambodia’s finest resorts, and Koh Rong is the ultimate beach-holiday nirvana. Palm-fringed beaches and luminous waters conjure just about every superlative in the dictionary – and then some – and those aforementioned resorts are idyllic, secluded, and shrines to undisturbed R&R. Then, 4 kilometres across the waves is Koh Rong Samloem, Koh Rong’s lesser-visited little sister. A haze of aquamarine waters and yawning crescents of sand, the accommodation options are laidback with a serious helping of barefoot relaxation, and although a few restaurants and beach bars provide entertainment if required, Samloem is really about getting away from it all – properly.

At the crossroads of towering, jungle-clad mountains, glittering sea, and miles and miles of virgin forest, the south-western province of Koh Kong is home to some of the country’s most breath-taking landscapes. It’s also hugely underdeveloped and there are truly areas where humans are yet to leave their mark. It’s this unspoilt wilderness that is the biggest draw for adventure-loving travellers; think kayaking down pumping rivers and juicy mangroves, swimming in tumbling waterfalls, and visiting remote, Venice-like fishing villages, perched on stilts in the vast wetlands. It’s also a good jumping-off point for trips into the Cardamom Mountains, where dense forests conceal ancient caves and unknown cultures as well as endangered wildlife species and even those that have yet to be named! Hotels and lodges are few and far between, as you may expect, but if you get this far, you’re in for a treat, we promise…

Part of the delectable Koh Rong Archipelago, Koh Krabey is one of those places that you’ll never want to leave let alone tell anyone else about, heaven forbid its charms be known to the world… The island is tiny (30 kilometres wide to be exact) and completely, utterly, wonderfully private, with only a smattering of villas strung across the jungle, all belonging to the same resort. All the elements of an indulgent escape are present and correct, from untrodden beaches to waters bursting with neon-bright fish, and a melee of pools and Jacuzzis, yoga decks, massage pavilions, and secret sunbathing spots to aid maximum relaxation. But actually, it’s the things you might not expect that make this an unforgettable destination. Take, for example, the forested interior that virtually buzzes with birds and animals, and the Earth Lab organic farm that supplies the hotel with a bouquet of organic fruit and vegetables. Perhaps you fancy mixing your own blend of herbs at the Alchemy Bar for a truly unique massage, gliding through the mangroves on the lookout for wildlife, or a watching the stars from a private observatory? Sounds terrible, doesn’t it…

From wealthy urbanites to playboy princes, the palm-fringed headland of Kep on Cambodia’s southern coastline was the place to be seen in the first half of the 20thcentury. Then, in the 1970s, the area became the centre of ferocious fighting between the Khmer Rouge and government forces, and the town lay all but deserted until really quite recently. The result is a deliciously quiet seaside escape, where development is careful and planned and the main activity is taking it easy. In the centre, crumbling, grandiose villas from bygone times sit alongside trendy, boutique hotels, locals from near and far chatter happily in the streets, and the seafood is unbeatable – try the famous Crab Market at sunset for Kep’s signature dish of fried crab and Kampot pepper. Catamarans, kayaks and snorkelling equipment can all be rented from the Sailing Club, day trips to tiny, sand-ringed islands will satisfy sun-worshippers (Kep’s beach isn’t the best we’ve come across). There are also plenty of opportunities to cycle in the countryside, hike in Bokor National Park, and visit the local pepper plantations of Kampot.