Chitwan is Nepal’s wild card – and an excellent one at that. Set in the Terai, in the lowlands of Southern Nepal, it’s a 360-square-mile patchwork of towering sal trees, grasslands and river systems and whilst the safari rhythm is instantly familiar (early starts, binoculars, excellent guides), it’s the activities that make it so unique. Hop on a jeep to search for the greater one-horned rhino, the park’s incredible conservation success story, and the fiery glint of a tiger (Chitwan is a stronghold of the Bengal and home to 120 of an estimated 3000 in the world), explore on foot for a closer look at the colourful birdlife and langur monkeys dancing in the trees, and then cruise down the Rapti River on a boat safari to spot long-nosed gahrial and even a swimming rhino or two if lady luck is on your side.
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Swap the snow-capped peaks for subtropical jungle, and you've got Chitwan – Nepal's wildlife-watching heartland and a world away from the mountain trails. Down in the steamy Terai lowlands, this UNESCO-listed park protects one of Asia's last great stretches of tall grassland and sal forest, home to one-horned rhinos, wild elephants, sloth bears and, if fortune favours, the elusive Bengal tiger. Jeep safaris push through dense vegetation in search of big game, while canoe trips along the Rapti River offer a quieter approach – drifting past mugger crocodiles sunning on the banks and gharials with their impossibly long snouts. Walking safaris with expert naturalists add a thrilling edge, tracking rhino footprints through the grass with nothing but binoculars and your wits. Birders will be in their element too, with over 500 species recorded, from giant hornbills to jewel-bright kingfishers. It's a completely different Nepal down here – humid, wild and teeming with life – and the perfect complement to the high-altitude drama further north. A couple of nights is enough to get a real taste of the park, though sightings have a way of keeping you hooked for longer.
Far removed from the mountains and freezing temperatures of the Nepal guidebooks, Chitwan brings a completely new ecosystem into your trip – and a great dose of wildlife too.
Choose a lodge on the river and sink into the dawn light, misty mornings, and wildlife ambling slowly along the banks.
Wildlife is always on its own schedule and sightings of the ‘big ticket’ animals can’t always be guaranteed – but that’s exactly why the good sightings feel so satisfying.
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