What to do in Edinburgh

Edinburgh wears its drama openly, and Edinburgh Castle is where it starts, perched above the city, its ramparts handing you the whole skyline in one sweep. From there, the Royal Mile tumbles down past St Giles' Cathedral to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, still very much a working royal residence. Descend into the Old Town's underground vaults for a shiver, or take a ghost walk after dark (not for the faint-hearted). By day, hike up Arthur's Seat for views over the Firth of Forth, or pedal the cobbles on two wheels instead. No visit is complete without a nose around the Scotch Whisky Experience (yes, an actual nose; there's a smell test) and an evening working through the Old Town's best kitchens. For a quieter finish, climb Calton Hill at dusk, where Edinburgh's half-built Acropolis catches the last of the light.