What to do in Edinburgh

Edinburgh wears its drama openly, and Edinburgh Castle is where it starts, perched above the city, its ramparts handing you the whole skyline in one sweep. From there, the Royal Mile tumbles down past St Giles' Cathedral to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, still very much a working royal residence. Descend into the Old Town's underground vaults for a shiver, or take a ghost walk after dark (not for the faint-hearted). By day, hike up Arthur's Seat for views over the Firth of Forth, or pedal the cobbles on two wheels instead. No visit is complete without a nose around the Scotch Whisky Experience (yes, an actual nose; there's a smell test) and an evening working through the Old Town's best kitchens. For a quieter finish, climb Calton Hill at dusk, where Edinburgh's half-built Acropolis catches the last of the light.

Tessa Dancer

UK Travel Specialist

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Storm Edinburgh Castle's ancient ramparts

The castle sits on a plug of volcanic rock above the city, and has been fortress, prison and royal residence in turn. Inside you'll find the Honours of Scotland (the oldest crown jewels in Britain), the Stone of Destiny and tiny St Margaret's Chapel, the oldest building in Edinburgh. Stay for the One O'Clock Gun.

Stroll the length of the Royal Mile

Edinburgh's spine runs downhill from the castle to Holyroodhouse, and it is (almost exactly) an old Scots mile. The pleasure is in the closes and wynds shooting off either side, dark and steep and largely ignored by the crowds. Duck down a few.