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One of the finest capital cities in the world and preposterously beautiful, it’s hard not to fall in love with Edinburgh. Built across seven hills and around the volcanic plug of Castle Rock, the city sits in the looming shadow of Arthur's Seat (walk to the top in under an hour for a staggering view), named after the King himself. The Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a medieval labyrinth of closes and wynds that branch from the Royal Mile, the single spine that runs from Edinburgh Castle down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse and home to all manner of tartan stores, fudge houses and historic pubs. Beside it, the Georgian New Town, planned in 1765, is still one of Europe's finest pieces of civic ambition, the wide streets and sandstone townhouses as stately and elegant as ever. A little further and you’ll find Stockbridge, the prettiest neighbourhood in the city, and Leith, the port district and quickly on its way to becoming one of the UK’s most extraordinary restaurant destinations. And then there’s the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, the largest arts festival in the world that takes over just about everything in August: 3,000 shows, 25 days, half a million people, and pure joy and creativity.
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Edinburgh wears its drama openly, and Edinburgh Castle is where it starts, perched above the city, its ramparts handing you the whole skyline in one sweep. From there, the Royal Mile tumbles down past St Giles' Cathedral to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, still very much a working royal residence. Descend into the Old Town's underground vaults for a shiver, or take a ghost walk after dark (not for the faint-hearted). By day, hike up Arthur's Seat for views over the Firth of Forth, or pedal the cobbles on two wheels instead. No visit is complete without a nose around the Scotch Whisky Experience (yes, an actual nose; there's a smell test) and an evening working through the Old Town's best kitchens. For a quieter finish, climb Calton Hill at dusk, where Edinburgh's half-built Acropolis catches the last of the light.
The closes, or narrow medieval alleyways that branch off the Royal Mile every few steps, are where Edinburgh's real character lives; each one named (Lady Stair's Close, Mary King's Close), and each one leading somewhere you hadn't expected...
It might not be as undiscovered as it used to be, but Dean Village, ten minutes' walk from Princes Street along the Water of Leith, is a beautiful cluster of 19th-century mill buildings perched along a wooded river that feels a million miles from the city.
Book your restaurants in advance: Edinburgh’s stand with the best of Europe. In Leith, you’ll find The Kitchin, Martin Wishart and Heron, all Michelin-starred, and in the city, there’s always something new, local and equally as special.
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