Where to go in Egypt

The city of a thousand minarets, laid out like a twinkling carpet of turrets amid swirling sands and honking horns, all cut through by the glossy waters of the Nile, Cairo is enchanting. The oldest city in the Arab world, it’s characterised by resplendent ancient sights: intricate churches, synagogues and mosques (the beautiful Ibn Tulum is the most famous), formidable temples and bustling bazaars. Then there are the Pyramids of Giza. The only remaining Wonder of the Ancient World, they draw thousands of visitors looking to uncover their secrets. But with almost 20 million inhabitants and 22 districts, there’s a modern side to Cairo too; the one of bars and galleries and boutiques, where the ladies of the city gather and the young smoke shisha and dance into the small hours. A complete juxtaposition, both are indicative of this city of many faces.

Think of Egypt and, aside from the pyramids, it’s probably Luxor you’re dreaming of. It’s no secret that the ancient Egyptians were rather fond of temples and tombs, and Luxor (or Thebes as it was once known) is home to the most superlative of them all. On the West Bank is the Valley of the Kings, an enigmatic city where pharaoh’s tombs are hidden deep in the passages, lavishly painted and decorated in homage to the dead. On the East Bank, the Temples of Karnak sprawl across the dusty landscape. The complex was the most important site of worship in the country and the collection of shrines and obelisks is built around the holiest of them all, the Temple of Anum. And if all this wasn’t enough to ignite a new-found passion for Egyptology, could we tempt you instead with a sunrise hot-air balloon flight over the temples below? Or perhaps a felucca cruise down the great Nile, sundowner in hand…

Escape the hooting and tooting of Cairo and make your way to Egypt’s southernmost city for a little respite – just not from the heat. Aswan is laidback and languorous but with the thermometer regularly tipping 40, it’s just as well! So, why make the journey to this tranquil town? First of all, it’s beautiful. Golden Saharan sands sweep down to the Nile where traditional Nubian villages stand squat, painted in beautiful colours and shaded by swaying palms. On the water, hundreds of feluccas bob past on their daily parade; hop on one and sail around the palm-studded islands, watching local life unfold, or make stops at the Tombs of the Nobles and Kitchener’s Island for the beautiful Botanical Gardens. Then, 90 miles south is the jewel in Aswan’s crown and the calling card for many a visitor: Abu Simbel, a complex of impressive, rock-hewn temples, and the phenomenal Philae Temple, or the Pearl of the Nile as it’s known. Organise a day trip or fly down if you’d like to linger longer.

Is there a name that conjures more exotic, history-filled memories and sheer awe than the Nile? Inspiration for many a film and book over the years, the world’s longest river is as practical as it is dreamy and plays a vital role in Egyptian culture and commerce. For centuries, travellers and traders have drifted up and down the glossy waters, and today a cruise is a time-honoured way to explore the treasures that line its banks. From multi-tiered cruisers to the ancient dahabiyyas – 19th century sailing boats and the ultimate in romance – there are plenty of vessels to choose from to suit your cruising style. All will stop at the renowned sights and monuments (the temples at Luxor, the High Dam and Obelisk, and the temple of Horus in Edfu, depending on your route), but it’s the unexpected sights of river life that are perhaps the most enjoyable: children splashing in the shallows, farmers tending to their sugarcane, families taking tea outside their mud-brick houses and the sails of feluccas catching the breeze…

Thought you had a good idea of what Egypt was all about? Siwa Oasis is here to challenge all of it. A mere 50 kilometres from the Libyan border, this a fertile land, 25 metres below sea level, is scattered with olive trees and date palms, tiny, mud-brick hamlets and ruined temples, where crystal-clear springs glitter in the earth. Its physical isolation from the rest of the country has helped protect a unique society, and out here, the people speak a different language and follow customs unknown to the interior. Then, there’s the Great Sand Sea, a seemingly never-ending expanse of restless dunes – some up to 140-kilometres long, the largest in the world - and colossal sand towers. Covering an area the size of Ireland, this is the canvas for some of Egypt’s best desert safaris, and explorations are remote, alien and enthralling.

Sitting pretty on the Mediterranean Coast, around three hours north of Cairo, is the city of Alexandria. For 1,000 years, it was the cosmopolitan capital of Egypt, a place where cultures fused, the Great Library represented the archive of ancient knowledge and the lighthouse - another Wonder of the Ancient World - stood proudly at the harbour entrance. But years of political conflict, and a helping hand from fate, saw the city fade into near oblivion and whilst the 20th century saw something of a revival, the glory days were never recreated. Precious little of the incredible past remains and today, visitors live out historical memories in vintage coffee houses and patisseries (recommended for their literary mystique rather more than their beverages!), in the catacombs and Pompey’s Pillar, with strolls along the faded seafront Corniche, and through the people who are still fiercely proud of their heritage.

After a few days of temple-gazing and obelisk-ogling, there will probably come a time on your Egypt trip when the thought of some sun, sea and sand seems, well, incredibly appealing. Enter Sharm El Sheikh and the alluringly-named Red Sea Riviera on the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula. Down here the sea is turquoise, the sand is perfectly pearlescent, and visitors, European and Egyptian alike, are drawn to beach-side living. The real appeal is, however, below that glittering cerulean surface…. Diving in the Red Sea is on the to-do list for most divers and with one look at the kaleidoscopic fish darting in and out of the coral and the starfish clinging to the reefs, you’ll see why. If you’re not prone to donning a scuba suit, there’s plenty of ways to enjoy the marine life on glass-bottom boat trips and snorkelling expeditions, whilst adventure-seekers can get their thrills water-skiing, parasailing, jet skiing or windsurfing. This is an iconic beach destination with all the trimmings.

Just like its glitzy older sister, Sharm el Sheikh, Hurghada has earned its stripes in the world of diving. The waters of the Red Sea are warm, calm and crystal-clear and with countless endemic fish and almost 500 species of coral, both diving and snorkelling are very special experiences. Within easy reach of most hotels in the area is the Dolphin House Reef, a colony used by local dolphins as a nursery, whilst Careless Reef is home to two coral towers and a good population of eels. But that’s not all Hurghada - and its surrounding white sand beaches and pretty bays – has to offer. This region is home to some of Egypt’s megawatt hotels, where luscious spas and swimming pools are the name of the game, and it’s mandatory to end each day on the beach, dining on freshly-caught seafood, cocktail in hand. Activities-wise, there are unhurried boat trips and picnics in hidden coves, and, if you’d like to head further afield, there are desert excursions, camel rides and quad bike adventures.