Where to go in Rwanda

In a country of neat, cultivated hills and forests of mountain gorilla, Akagera National Park is a fascinating contrast. The undulating plains and rolling grasslands are just made for game drives, whilst the Akagera River and surrounding juicy wetlands add a touch of something different - and the chance to see the rare shoebill stork. On the wildlife front, elephant, buffalo, zebra, giraffe and hyena are all in residence and new additions to the four-legged scene include lion and black rhino, reintroduced in 2015 and 2017. Managed by the ever-wonderful African Parks, the reintroductions were part of a larger conservation effort to restore Akagera to its pre-genocide glory and although wildlife numbers still aren’t as high as other safari-stalwarts in East Africa, it looks like it will only be a matter of time.

There are African cities, noisy, bustling and glorious in their own right, and then there’s Kigali. Having not only survived its turbulent political past, the capital has positively blossomed into one of Africa’s most cosmopolitan hotspots. Safe and clean (the last Saturday of every month is reserved for hedge-clipping, rubbish-collecting and other novel community activities), it’s also remarkably picturesque, surrounded by emerald-green hills and sweeping valleys. Our advice? Don’t just stop for a night on the way to or from a gorilla trek but spend a couple of days exploring the jacaranda-ed boulevards, aromatic food markets and cafes and the eye-opening (and appealingly sensitive) genocide memorials.

Nyungwe National Park is Rwanda's most important area of biodiversity, and is currently the highest priority for forest conservation in Africa. A pretty good claim to fame, and for good reason too. The vast rainforest is truly enchanting: dense stands of mahoganies tangled with ancient ferns tower overhead; herbaceous plants and cornucopias of colourful orchids and butterflies charm every sense. As for wildlife, more than a quarter of Africa’s primates live here. The big drawcard is chimpanzee trekking, but 400-strong troops of monkeys, baboon, mongoose, otter, bushpig, civet and genet also deserve your attention. And don't forget East Africa’s highest canopy walk – a metal bridge suspended 50 metres above the forest floor, offering vertiginous views of the enchanting scenery.

An enormous, freshwater lake in the heart of the Albertine Rift, Lake Kivu is bordered by Rwanda to one side, and the DRC to the other. The setting is dramatic and beautiful: steep escarpments and terraced tea plantations plunge into the glassy water, pretty islets and peninsulas are draped in thick forest, and crescents of golden sand peek out from under the greenery. On a journey from Nyungwe to Volcanoes National Park, pop in to one of the quaint resort towns of Gisenyi and Kibuye. Both offer good accommodation and some excellent swimming spots in the predator-free water, and a little "beachside" R&R in an otherwise landlocked country.