Cool, often crisp days settle over the city's hilltop position, with the surrounding Umbrian valleys below frequently in mist. Walking the medieval centre on clear winter days is a real Perugian pleasure.

The escalators up through the Rocca Paolina come into their own. Walking the underground passages of the 16th-century papal fortress, with its preserved medieval streets running beneath the modern city, is wonderfully atmospheric in winter.

Baci Perugina and the city's chocolate culture lean into winter. Head to Sandri (the historic Corso Vannucci pasticceria) for hot chocolate and the chocolate factory for tastings.

Mist frequently rolls up from the valleys to envelop the city walls. Perugia at dawn from the Porta Sole or the Giardini Carducci, looking out across cloud-filled valleys, is among Italy's more cinematic winter scenes.

The Palazzo dei Priori's Sala dei Notari reveals its full character. The 13th-century vaulted hall, with its frescoes and original wooden beams, is at its quietest, and feels truly medieval.

The Etruscan Arch (Arco Etrusco) and the city's Etruscan walls might just look like another part of the city, but they’re archeological sites belonging to Perugia's pre-Roman era - over 2,500 years old! They’re well worth a visit.

Spring arrives gradually, with milder, longer days, and easing rainfall. That means aperitivo evenings on the Corso Vannucci can make their return!

The long, clear afternoons are perfect for exploring the hilltop city. Walk the Acquedotto Medievale (the aqueduct walkway that doubles as a pedestrian street) to follow in the footsteps of the city’s medieval residents.

The Università per Stranieri shifts into spring rhythm. Italy's foremost school for foreigners brings a cosmopolitan young crowd back to the city's bars, cafés and bookshops.

From Perugia's elevated position, the panoramic views from the Giardini Carducci and the Rocca Paolina rooftops reveal the Umbrian landscape as it settles into spring.

The Only Wine Festival celebrates small-property and emerging Italian winemakers. Tastings happen across the centro storico's piazzas and palazzi - an insider experience for any of the wine-curious.

Easter Monday (Pasquetta) sees Perugians decamp to the surrounding hills for picnics. Join locals on the lawns around the city walls or the Frontone gardens for a laid back Umbrian afternoon.

Warm, dry days arrive with very little rain to interrupt them. The Corso Vannucci is the place to be, with locals on passeggiata (evening strolls) and aperitivi spilling out of shop windows.

The Università per Stranieri's end-of-year exhibitions and concerts animate the centro storico. Cultural events at the Palazzo Gallenga and across the city bring a buzz to the city without the summer tourists.

Umbrian cuisine - that’s strangozzi, lentil soup and torta al testo at their best - are served at the city’s many terraced restaurants, with the rooftop restaurants of the major hotels now all open.

Its hilltop position keeps Perugia noticeably cooler than the surrounding Umbrian valleys. Even on the warmest summer days, the city's elevation and stone-built streets keep it cooler than Assisi or Foligno below.

Dotted throughout the city are Perugia’s historic gelateria, perfectly placed for you to pop in and choose a gelato to drive away the heat. Can’t choose? Don’t worry, there’s another just around the corner.

The Rocca Paolina's underground passages become a welcome cool retreat. The 16th-century papal fortress, with its preserved medieval streets running beneath the modern city, stays cellar-cool through the warmest afternoons.

Umbria Jazz takes over Perugia for ten days in mid-July. International names play the Arena Santa Giuliana, the Teatro Morlacchi and free stages across the centro storico - one of Europe's most respected jazz festivals.

Open-air cinemas pop up in neighbourhood parks. Free film screenings at the Giardini del Frontone, Parco Aretino and other green spaces - Italian classics paired with warm summer nights.

Serestate kicks off the city's open-air summer programme. Classical concerts and family events fill the historic centre's piazzas, churches and gardens.

The hottest, most humid stretch of the year settles in. Stick to the shaded courtyards during the day, before soaking up golden late afternoon rays from a rooftop with a view.

The city empties as Perugians migrate to the beach for Ferragosto holidays. Many family-run restaurants close around mid-month, but the resulting quiet across the centro storico has its own appeal.

The Galleria Nazionale, the Collegio del Cambio and the Rocca Paolina passages all stay open, but are much quieter. Visiting Perugino's frescoes without competition is among the smarter August moves in Perugia.

Temperatures settle, and the first glimpses of autumn light arrive towards month end - perfect for a late afternoon stroll, camera in hand.

Sagra Musicale Umbra brings classical music to Perugia's most atmospheric venues. Performances at the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, the Oratorio di San Bernardino and the Sala dei Notari run through September in seriously acoustic settings.

Nicola and Giovanni Pisano's 13th-century masterpiece, the Fontana Maggiore, is at its most photogenic with soft September light and thinner crowds.

Rain becomes more frequent, but bright spells between fronts deliver dramatic light. The combination of mist in the valleys and clear sun on Perugia's hilltop creates amazingly cinematic conditions.

Eurochocolate (yes, that’s a thing) takes over Perugia for nine days, filling the centro storico with chocolatiers, sculptures carved from solid blocks and chocolate indulgence that you’d expect from Italy's chocolate capital.

Black truffles from Valnerina start appearing on Perugia's trattoria menus. A generous portion shaved over some fresh pasta, paired with a glass of Sagrantino, is Perugia on a plate.

Cool, bright days suit the city's contemplative autumn mood. Walking the medieval centre with the Apennines in autumn colour beyond is among the better reasons to visit Umbria's capital this month.

Head to the Galleria Nazionale dell'Umbria and you’ll find you have the gallery’s serious early-Renaissance collection mostly to yourself.

Autumn cuisine reaches its peak across the city's traditional trattorie. Strangozzi al tartufo, lentil soups, wild boar ragù and Umbrian roast meats anchor menus at the family-run osterie of the centro storico.

The first cold snaps bring crystalline air to the hilltop. Clear December afternoons reveal extraordinary visibility across the Apennines, with snow-dusted peaks visible from the Giardini Carducci.

The Christmas atmosphere transforms Perugia. The escalators up through the Rocca Paolina are strung with lights, and the Mercatini di Natale fill Piazza IV Novembre with mulled wine, panettone and Umbrian crafts.

Make sure you have a hot chocolate in hand and go for a midnight passeggiata as the New Year is seen in with fireworks from Piazza IV Novembre.