Sileo Hotel

The lobby makes quite an entrance with its brass sputnik chandelier and glass portholes in the floor revealing the art gallery below. Two bars serve light bites throughout the day, though the décor feels somewhat tired with its neutral browns and bronze accents. Downstairs, a quirky micro-cinema and rotating art exhibitions add cultural clout, while the rooftop houses a small fitness centre, sauna and that famous cemetery-view pool. The whole setup feels more residential than resort - perfect if you prefer your hotels without the fuss.

All 24 suites sport olive-toned décor with parquet floors and marble bathrooms, plus those essential private balconies. Kitchenettes come equipped with two-burner stoves, mini-fridges and basic crockery - handy for breakfast or a midnight empanada. Rooms vary from compact standards to the sprawling penthouse with its spa bath and wraparound terrace. Expect pillow-top mattresses, 32-inch tellies and decent Wi-Fi, though some guests report the odd maintenance niggle like sagging curtains or temperamental air-con.

Step outside and you're in Recoleta proper - the cemetery tour is obligatory (book a guide for the gossip), while the National Museum of Fine Arts sits just 12 minutes away on foot. The spectacular El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop occupies a former theatre 16 minutes' walk away. Palermo's restaurants and bars cluster nearby, or hop on the train (four minutes away) to reach Teatro Colón in 20 minutes. The concierge sorts tango shows and airport transfers, though you'll pay extra for both.