St Ermin's Hotel

The entrance is the most brilliant opening act to a stay. Turn off the street into a wide, tree-lined courtyard and magnificent Victorian red brick entryway, before entering the lobby of wedding-cake Rococo plasterwork, dripping chandeliers and a theatrical double staircase that sweeps up to the terrazzo where afternoon tea is laid. At the side, The Caxton Bar & Grill is altogether more conspiratorial, with its low-lighting, buzzy, after-work atmosphere, and Cold War memorabilia. There's also a lovely courtyard terrace for alfresco drinks in the unlikely peace of central Westminster.

Upstairs, the operatic lobby gives way to something a tad more restful and all rooms and suites are modern and comfortable. Suites lean into old-money eccentricity: leather-wrapped wardrobes with mother-of-pearl inlays, two-poster beds in crisp cotton, and squishy armchairs to sink into after a long day pounding the capital's streets. The rooms are calmer in palette with warm neutrals and pretty soft furnishings, and range from Standard (20 to 23 square metres) to Executive (24 to 28 square metres). In the evening, you'll find small bee-shaped chocolates on your pillow in a nod to the active hives.

Step outside and you're five minutes from Parliament Square, the Churchill War Rooms and St James's Park, where pelicans have been causing a scene since 1664. Westminster Abbey is an easy walk, as is Buckingham Palace. Back at the hotel, dig into the espionage displays in the lobby, then book an afternoon tea to taste the famous rooftop honey for yourself. History buffs or not, parents should ask about the children's Secret Agent Package, which is equal parts espionage and fun.