The Caledonian

Built in 1903 as the Caledonian Railway's grand terminus hotel, the building still wears its station history well. The lobby lounge, now called The Court, still has the original ticket-hall clock (set five minutes fast so nobody missed a train) alongside dusky-pink velvet booths and a stage for weekend jazz. Climb the marble staircase past stained-glass crests of long-vanished railway destinations to find the Caley Bar, a vinyl-scored cocktail den, or head to The Pompadour for a seven-course extravaganza featuring the best of Scottish produce from both land and sea overlooking the castle.

The location of the Caley is fantastic and right in the heart of most of what you want to see. Princes Street Gardens are just across the road and the Castle is a proper uphill walk beyond them, so pace yourself or hail a taxi. The Royal Mile and the National Museum of Scotland are both within twenty minutes on foot and the Johnnie Walker Whiskey Experience is literally across the road (and worth it for the rooftop bar alone). Come August, the Fringe takes over the city but the hotel sits close enough to the chaos without being swallowed by it; and during Hogmanay, the fireworks over the Castle are rather spectacular.