Korkor Lodge

The stone-clad main area enjoys wide views of the escarpment from the lounge and shaded veranda. The narrow patio hosts most meals at one long table, where Italian cuisine, drinks and conversation flow heartily. (The cook is one of the best in Ethiopia.) Inside, the stone-floored lounge and dining room are furnished with sofas and cushioned armchairs, and a bench seat that traces the wall. Decor tends toward minimalism, with a few noteworthy local pieces of art and artefacts.

Twelve rectangular sandstone bungalows with olive-wood floors and eucalyptus ceilings blend into the garden surroundings – an architectural skill that's appropriate in these parts. All are open-plan and light-filled, with king-sized or twin beds, and the option to add extra single beds. Each has a lattice-shaded patio with seating, and a bathroom where you can shower (yes, in private) with mountain views through tall glass windows. Rooms may lack mod cons such as air-conditioning, but they're comfortable, tasteful and immaculate.

Korkor's Italian owners are particularly well-versed in Tigray's dense history, and their advice can help make it come alive. But you'll need reputable guides to accompany you when visiting the sites – both for your safety (access can be vertiginous), and to make the historical and cultural best of your experience. You won't come close to seeing them all, but the best preserved are well-worth it for their vistas and frescos. Try Abuna Yemata Guh, Maryam Korkor and Daniel Korkor.