RAW Botswana

Beneath the shade of a leadwood forest, you'll find a simple but more than adequate open-plan lounge and communal dining area. Perched above the seasonal waters of the spillway, is a large deck and a sizeable plunge pool surrounded by umbrellas and sun loungers. Sandy paths link the main area to the tents; by night they are lit with paraffin lantern, in true safari fashion. Here, the emphasis is not the interior decor but the rustic comforts and convivial atmosphere of a traditional safari.

There are just five double tents with beds that can easily be converted into two twins. Each tent has an en-suite bathroom with a double basin, shower and shady deck overlooking the spillway. The honeymoon suite has a fabulous outdoor shower. Rooms are simple and comfortable, totally solar-powered, with just enough light to read by at night. No hairdryers or plug points here, though batteries can be charged in the main area. What more do you need than a decent mattress and a 180 degree view of one of Botswana's most magnificent wilderness areas?

Walking safaris are the focus of this camp, so come prepared with a comfortable pair of shoes. But be ready to slow the pace from your typical safari, as activities here are largely engine-free. Mokoro excursions depend hugely on the water levels which are not only seasonal but vary from year to year. Experienced riders have the option of exploring the channels and floodplains on horseback - a rare and magnificent opportunity. For an added adventure (and an even more rustic one) spend the night at Little Motswiri, the neighbouring fly camp that can be accessed by foot, horse, or mokoro.