Where to go in Campania

Craggy, breath-taking and riddled with beaches, candy-coloured umbrellas, hidden coves and golden sun worshippers, the Amalfi Coast is one of the Med’s glitziest destinations. A series of hairpin bends (complete with whizzing vespas) link one village to the next, their sun-bleached houses and lemon-strewn gardens tumbling down to the ocean below. From the household names of Positano, Salerno and Ravello, where the yachts dot the harbours and an Aperol is never far away, to the lesser-known towns of Atrani and laid-back Praiano, each is unique in its charms and achingly beautiful. When you’ve finished working your way through the sea of irresistible restaurants, there’s plenty to see and do too from boat trips and cooking classes to hillside wine tastings and visits to Amalfi’s striped Duomo – as well as a little shopping for colourful ceramics and bejewelled sandals, of course.

Rising vertically from the Tyrrhenian in a sweep of limestone cliffs, summits and hairpin bends, Capri has been seducing visitors since Emperor Tiberius built his villas here nearly 2,000 years ago. The glamour is real — polished piazzas, tailored linen, upscale hotels and the design-forward boutiques of the Via Camerelle — and the iconic image of Jackie O in her white kaftan and dark sunglasses is a perfect shorthand for the jet-set. But behind it, you’ll find a blend of history, nature and worldliness. The Faraglioni rock stacks pierce the sea just offshore, Monte Solaro is all about wind-brushed panoramas, and the Blue Grotto still glows an electric shade when the light hits. Capri town brings theatre and people-watching; Anacapri feels calmer and a little more residential, with labyrinthine lanes and shady gardens. Come for the drama, stay for the detail – and perhaps a very good martini at sunset.

Laundry strung between balconies, zipping scooters and Mount Vesuvius rising in the distance… Welcome to Naples! It’s multi-layered and full volume and you’ll either love or hate the grit, the grime and the contrasts. But, even if you have to look a little harder for them, the rewards are there, from the Duomo and the relics of San Gennaro, to an archaeological museum with treasures from Pompeii, Teatro San Carlo, and the Caravaggios that hang in shadowy churches. Neapolitans are also obsessed with food, and we don’t just mean tri-coloured ice cream and pizza (although the latter is still the finest you’ll ever eat). Start the day with a coffee and then the choice is yours: friarielli, cuoppo and Frittatina di Pasta from the market, followed by a long-simmered ragu and Pasta alla Genovese, all topped off by a sugar-dusted sfogliatella.

Perched along the white cliffs that plunge into the Bay of Naples, Sorrento has been luring travellers since ancient times — the Greeks believed the Sirens sang from the shores, tempting passing sailors towards the rocks. Today, it’s lemon groves and sweeping views that do the persuading and in fact, this is limoncello country, where heady citrus perfume drifts on the air and seafood arrives simply dressed with lemon, oil and salt. Wander the charming old town and the gelato-lined, restaurant-packed Piazza Tasso where artisan workshops still produce intricate inlaid wood, and then head to one of the cliffside restaurants to feast on locally-caught fish, a zesty Falanghina and full, fleshy olives. Then, when you're ready for a tad more action, take a ferry to the islands of Capri and Ischia, or enjoy a drive along the Amalfi Coast, accompanied by some of Italy's most postcard-worthy scenery.

If Capri gets the flashbulbs, then Ischia gets the insiders. A 17-square-mile volcanic dot in the Gulf of Naples, it’s lesser-known, a little bit retro and begs exploring, especially to the famous mineral-rich thermal hot springs. At Sorgeto, steam rises from the rock and springs bubble through the sea, but for a true spa experience try Negombo or Giardini Poseidon, wellness parks that are fed by natural springs. All this fertile, volcanic soil also means gardens of surreal blooms and lush displays and plenty of vineyards producing the local Biancolella, best sampled over a long, undisturbed lunch. Inland, the mighty Monte Epomeo is the main attraction (and well worth a hike), while the coast is watched over by Aragonese Castle and dotted with towns and villages of whitewashed houses, quirky shopping (without a Gucci in sight) and nonnas hanging out their laundry.