Less famous than Capri and all the better for it, Ischia is a volcanic island of thermal springs, vine-draped hillsides and unhurried Italian life.
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If Capri gets the flashbulbs, then Ischia gets the insiders. A 17-square-mile volcanic dot in the Gulf of Naples, it’s lesser-known, a little bit retro and begs exploring, especially to the famous mineral-rich thermal hot springs. At Sorgeto, steam rises from the rock and springs bubble through the sea, but for a true spa experience try Negombo or Giardini Poseidon, wellness parks that are fed by natural springs. All this fertile, volcanic soil also means gardens of surreal blooms and lush displays and plenty of vineyards producing the local Biancolella, best sampled over a long, undisturbed lunch. Inland, the mighty Monte Epomeo is the main attraction (and well worth a hike), while the coast is watched over by Aragonese Castle and dotted with towns and villages of whitewashed houses, quirky shopping (without a Gucci in sight) and nonnas hanging out their laundry.
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Ischia Island is bigger, greener and far less polished than its glossy neighbour. There are thermal waters fizzing up everywhere you look, the Aragonese Castle rising sheer from the sea, and a rhythm that feels properly Italian.
La Mortella, the late Sir William Walton's subtropical garden tucked into the hillside above Forio, is one of Europe's loveliest – a tangle of water lilies, tree ferns and summer concerts that barely registers on most island itineraries.
Ischia is larger than it looks on the map, and bouncing between Sant'Angelo, Forio and Ischia Ponte eats up more time than expected. We say, pick one base and explore from there.
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