Where to go in Garden Route

Think Knysna, think deep blue ocean, yachts, sandy beaches, galleries, cafes, oysters, and that exquisite, glassy lagoon. Sound pretty good? It is! Small but spirited, Knysna is easy-going and arty; and chilled-out restaurants, local shops, galleries and outdoor explorations in Featherbed Nature Reserve and nearby Knysna Forest offer something for everyone in the family. But really, it’s the water that holds Knysna’s biggest appeal. Located on the banks of the lagoon and flanked by the Heads (drive to the top for epic views), two enormous buttresses that keep the crashing waves of the Indian Ocean at a distance, there are cruises, sunset sails, kayaking and boat tours a-plenty. Then there are the oysters, so utterly delicious, they have a dedicated festival in July when seafood lovers from across the globe descend on the town to indulge. Although in our opinion, you certainly don’t need a festival to enjoy an oyster, a glass of bubbles, and those fabulous views across the lagoon…

Plett has long been the playground of glamorous South Africans looking for languorous days of sun, sea, sand, and a healthy dose of good food and wine - and now, visitors are in on the act too. Stretching from the creamy-white Robberg Beach in the south, to the quieter Keurbooms Beach in the north, just about every house, lodge and hotel (whether you choose to stay in the town itself or on the outskirts) enjoys dazzling views of the ocean and the dramatic Tsitsikamma Mountains. Days are all about being outside, be it on the water in search of whales (winter) and dolphins (summer), next to the water on one of the safe, warm-watered and incredibly child-friendly beaches, or on land, tackling the ups and downs of the Robberg Peninsula in search of Cape Fur seals. Nearby, the fynbos-studded trails of Tsitsikamma National Park are well worth an exploration, as are the wildlife reserves, and when all the fresh air hits home, a glass of ice-cold something is never far away at one of the many chilled-out restaurants and bars on the waterfront…

When you begin to catch sight of plumes of brightly-coloured ostrich feathers for sale at the side of the road, you know you’re approaching Oudtshoorn. Nestled deep in the Klein Karoo at the end of the infamous Route 62 (and Ronnie’s Sex Shop), the tiny town is renowned as the ostrich capital of the world thanks to its colony of farmed ostriches. The long-legged birds roam around dusty aloes and across country roads; and there are more ostrich-related activities to get stuck into than you ever thought possible, ranging from the sublime (indulging in delicious ostrich steaks) to the ridiculous (ostrich-back racing anyone?!). When you’re birded out, head for the Cango Caves, an impressive system of caves and tunnels with a collection of enormous stalactites and stalagmites, or head into the Swartberg Mountains and embark on one of the many hiking trails through the wilderness.

Drive east from Plettenberg Bay, past pretty-as-a-picture Keurboomstrand and the heart-stopping Bloukrans Bridge and bungee, and you’ll soon stumble across Tsitsikamma and the village of Storms River. Tsitsikamma is the name given to this section of the Garden Route National Park and encompassing deep ravines and dense forests, roiling rivers and a host of flora that looks as if it belongs on a movie set - think giant Outeniqua trees and orchids and lilies the size of small children - it’s nothing short of spectacular. The 80km coastline is just as remarkable and it’s not unusual to spot dolphins and whales from the shoreline whilst baboons and dassies run amok nearby. Storms River is a few minutes from the entrance to the park and although small, has made its name as a something of an activity hub. It’s here that you can book the zip-lining tree canopy activity, guided hikes, and kayaking tours. If you’d rather tackle Tsitsikamma alone, simply head through the gate and follow one of the well-marked hiking or walking trails; the viewpoint just over the 77-metre suspension bridge at the Storms River mouth is a favourite.

If you were under any doubt that Wilderness was astonishingly pretty and, well, tucked into the wilderness, let us set you straight. A world of dense forests, towering slopes and pretty lagoons on one side, and whiter-than-white sand pounded by a frothing ocean surf on the other, to stay here is to slow down, relax, and enjoy everything the great outdoors has to offer. The area is, in fact, renowned for its peace and tranquillity and the enclave certainly seems to have been absolved of stormy seas and windswept shorelines, making it ideal for long, wandering walks and hikes, mountain biking and windsurfing, or simply finding a pretty spot to sit down and just…be. The town centre is perhaps not as ‘wild’ as the name suggests, but when the coffee’s that good (we’re talking the Green Shed Roastery) and there’s an authentic Neapolitan pizza restaurant in the vicinity, we’re quite happy to take a visit.

On the very edge of the Great Karoo, the frontier town of Prince Albert is at the end of the Swartberg Pass, a twisting, turning melee of mountain road that is one of the most spectacular in the world – and not for the faint-hearted! But once you’ve tackled the bends (and not looked down) the treat at the end is Prince Albert. The 250-year-old ‘dorp’ (town in Afrikaans) is something of a contradiction, and beneath an exterior of tin-rooved cottages, chintz curtains and tea shops, you’ll find art galleries, yoga studios and some very fine food. Whilst the empty countryside gives nothing away, the town brims with peaches, apricots and figs, and the Olive Festival every April is a sight to behold. Aside from some spectacular hiking and biking in the mountains, there’s not a whole lot to do, but the beauty of Prince Albert is arriving for 1 night, yet staying for 3, and soaking up the magic of big-sky, epic-countryside South Africa where the stars are bright and the silence is perfect.

About 4 hours from Cape Town, and holding the oft-debated title of the ‘official’ start of the Garden Route, is Mossel Bay. A harbour town through and through, there’s something of an old-school seaside vibe around, with plenty of ice cream kiosks and fish and chip stands, lively restaurants, and the Point, a quaint promontory where afternoon strolls are mandatory. With a good range of places to stay ranging from budget to (relative) luxury, the town is popular with backpackers starting their Garden Route adventures, and surfers taking advantage of the gnarly waves. If you’re in town for a night or two, it’s one of the best spots along the Garden Route for shark cage diving, and if that’s your cup of tea, you might be interested in sky diving or sandboarding too. Otherwise, head to the beach, source a locally-distilled gin, and enjoy some R&R.

Founded in 1811, George is the largest city on the Garden Route and, surprisingly, the second largest in the Western Cape after Cape Town. Sitting smack bang between the Mother City and Port Elizabeth, it’s often considered the ‘capital’ of this treasured route and a good base for stocking up on supplies or from which to visit the star attractions further afield. The centre of the town, although sprinkled with a handful of pretty buildings, is functional more than anything and the real fun in George happens in the nearby golf resorts. Framed by the Outeniqua Mountains and surrounded by forests and lazy streams, they are luxurious and fun, and razzle-dazzle restaurants and spoiling spas are never far away. If you do enjoy a round or two, the courses are world-class and often play host to major events throughout the year, so you never know when you might find yourself practising your swing next to a PGA professional…

The only residential area inside any of South Africa’s notable 21 national parks, Nature’s Valley is a tranquil corner of Tsitsikamma. On three sides of the village are the dense, green yellowwood trees of the forest, in some cases rising so high they almost seem to pierce the sky, and on the fourth, the crashing waves of the Indian Ocean and a scattered selection of golden beaches. As you may have guessed, a stay here is firmly focused on nature and absorbing this untamed corner of South Africa – and there are plenty of hidden corners and wild spots to help you do so. Explore the peaceful lagoon and hunt out the perfect spot for a picnic in one of the waterside enclaves; canoe or kayak down the churning Groot River; stroll along the beach in the early morning mist; or take on the famous Tsitsikamma Mountain Trail, Pig’s Head or Salt River hikes, after which a hearty meal and a cold one in the local pub sounds just about right.