Kathmandu is buzzing, busy, brilliant and completely unfiltered. From ornate palace courtyards and incense-filled alleyways filled with the glow of butter lamps, to vibrant bazaars, processions, honking scooters and (very) determined holy cows, there really is a little bit of everything. Once a key point on the trans-Himalayan trade routes, it’s also where Nepal’s story has long been gathered, traded and argued over – and the city still feels very much like a modern meeting place today. The big-hitters – Durbar Square, Monkey Temple, the Boudhanath Stupa and the Hindu temple of Pashupatinath – are well-worth a visit, but linger for a while and browse the shops in Thamel, and then refuel at one of the pretty cafes in the Garden of Dreams to really get a feel for this iconic slice of Nepal.
<p class="rte-paragraph">Kathmandu is a city that hits all the senses at once – incense smoke curling from ancient temples, the clatter of prayer wheels, saffron-robed monks weaving through streets lined with spice stalls, and the distant chime of bells from stupas that have watched over the valley for centuries. Start with the iconic Boudhanath Stupa, one of the largest in the world, where pilgrims circle the whitewashed dome in meditative loops, or climb the steep steps to Swayambhunath (affectionately known as the Monkey Temple) for sweeping views and some cheeky resident macaques. At Pashupatinath, Nepal's holiest Hindu site, you can witness evening Aarti ceremonies along the Bagmati River – a powerful, moving experience that stays with you. Durbar Square offers a crash course in Newari architecture, all intricately carved wooden windows and pagoda-roofed shrines, while the surrounding lanes reward aimless wandering with pottery workshops, hole-in-the-wall momos and markets piled high with turmeric and cardamom. And if the Himalayas are calling but time isn't on your side, a scenic Everest flight puts you eye-to-eye with the world's highest peaks before breakfast. Chaotic, spiritual and utterly addictive – Kathmandu is one of those cities you never quite shake.</p>
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